Lionel Faury, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Ribaudes” 2021 (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)

St. Joseph, an important but sometimes overlooked appellation in the Northern Rhône, is exceptionally long, running on the west bank of that river from Cornas in the south to Condrieu in the north. Its soils and exposures are varied, given its length, unlike its more circumscribed neighbors, Cornas, Hermitage, and Côte Rôtie, so it’s hard to generalize about the wines. That said, the reds are typically more approachable when young compared to those appellations. Like its neighbors, Syrah is the major red grape, although like Côte Rôtie, small amounts of white grapes can be included along with Syrah. Faury’s delightful 2021 delivers dark fruit notes accented by peppery ones. It’s powerful, as you would expect from a Syrah-based wine, but has finesse and a fine texture that makes it lovely to drink now with hearty fall fare. Power, elegance, and a suave texture—what more could you want?
93 Michael Apstein