Pico Maccario, Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) 2019 ($48, Winebow)

Although the Pico Maccario estate was only established in 1997, the Maccario family has been growing Nebbiolo grapes for generations. Their south-facing Barolo vineyard in Serralunga rests at a high elevation and on limestone and marl soils. The Maccario brothers vinify this wine in a traditional style, with 18 months of aging in large barrels plus another year in bottle before release. While it shows the classic balance of the harvest and the subtle spiciness of oak, the style of the Nebbiolo grape shows clearly. The nose is forward and complex with floral rose hints followed by layers of juicy cherry, red plum and raspberry fruits all underlain by elements of leather, sandalwood, tea leaf and spice. The flavors display delicate fruits enveloped by the classic, woodsy, leafy, forest floor character of fine Barolo. The wine continues to unfold on the palate, revealing new aspects as it opens. Delicious now, it can cellar well for another 20 years.
93 Wayne Belding