Tenuta del Melo, Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2022 ($15, R & B Wine Imports)

Gavi, the DOCG, takes its name from Gavi, the principal commune of the region. Wines from the DOCG remain underappreciated, perhaps because they are typically racy and sleek but not opulent, or perhaps the grape from which the wines must be made, Cortese, has little recognition. Regardless, their lack of popularity keeps their prices down. The price of this clean, mineral-infused Gavi certainly adds to its appeal. This vibrant and taut light-weight (but penetrating) white is best suited to grilled seafood or as a foil to shrimp scampi.
92 Michael Apstein