Sans Liege Wines, Central Coast (California) “Côtes du Coast” 2023 ($30)

Based in Paso Robles, winemaker Curt Schalchlin is a noted Rhône wine specialist. But as evidenced by his artsy labels and unconventional wine descriptions, he does things differently. Sourcing from some of the best-known vineyards in Santa Barbara and elsewhere, he assembled this blend of 36% Viognier, 32% Marsanne, 17% Clairette, 11% Roussanne, and 4% Grenache Blanc. All but the Grenache are barrel fermented by native yeasts and lees aged in French oak. But the wine is — surprisingly given its composition — a smooth, subtle, and lively ready to drink white. It immediately gets your attention with fresh peach, lemon and honeysuckle aromas. Medium bodied, nicely textured, and vibrant, it offers stone fruit flavors and has a long finish that is neither bitter nor acidic. Charming, fun to drink, and nicely priced to boot.
92 Norm Roby