Puglia, one of Italy’s southernmost wine regions, stretches across the entire “boot heel” of the country. Its peninsular shape offers coastal exposure along both its eastern and western borders, with a diverse landscape perfect for cultivating everything from grapes to olives. In fact, half of Italy’s olive oil is produced in the dry heat of Puglia. The region’s warm climate and fertile soil make it an agricultural haven, while the cool breezes off the Mediterranean Sea help moderate vineyard temperatures. Despite these natural advantages, Puglian wine has long been overshadowed, often playing second fiddle to more renowned regions like Barolo or Montalcino.
But that perception is changing, thanks in part to pioneering winemakers like the Varvaglione family. I had the privilege of visiting them last month, and as we gathered in their wine cellar—the largest family-owned cellar in Puglia—their stories unfolded. Each family member spoke of their favorite wines, but inevitably, they all circled back to the iconic 1921 Primitivo di Manduria Riserva DOP. This wine not only marks the winery’s first Primitivo di Manduria Riserva but also embodies a profound connection to the family’s deep-rooted heritage in Salento, the southernmost portion of Puglia.
Cosimo Varvaglione, the current head of the winery, reflected on the 1921 Primitivo, saying, “It embodies our commitment to the future while honoring our roots and where we’re headed.” The wine, with a label commemorating the family’s winemaking journey (that began in 1921) and a bicycle symbolizing both the preservation of tradition and the drive for innovation, encapsulates this ethos. This philosophy resonates throughout their collection, in which each wine strikes a delicate balance between time-honored heritage and forward-thinking modernity. It is this dynamic blend of past and future that defines the Varvaglione portfolio, uniting respect for history with a bold vision for what’s to come.
Family Affairs: Where Tradition Meets Modernity
To understand where the Varvaglione family is headed, it’s important to appreciate where they began. The origin is a love story between Angelo and Filomena Varvaglione, whose love for each other and their land laid the foundation for what would become a flourishing winery. At first, their wines were shared among friends and neighbors but not sold commercially. Following World War II, the second generation ventured into winemaking for the local market, producing vino sfuso—everyday wine sold to locals who would bring their own vessels for filling.
The real transformation came with the third generation. Cosimo Varvaglione, equipped with deep agricultural knowledge and a passion for viticulture, began focusing on quality wine when much of Puglia’s production was dedicated to volume and bulk sales, helping to raise the bar on Puglia’s wine identity. His wife, Maria Teresa, an accomplished accountant and businesswoman, successfully advocated bottling the wines under the Varvaglione 1921 brand in the early 2000s, setting the stage for the family’s international success.
Today, with access to 550 hectares (150 owned by the family) and decades-long relationships with local grape growers, the winery is one of Puglia’s oldest and largest, with wines exported to more than 60 countries. Even as they expand their global reach, the family has deepened its commitment to the region. In 2018, they acquired the 17th-century Masseria Pizzariello, a historic farm estate, that now completes the winery’s landscape of vineyards, century-old olive groves, and rolling countryside.
The Fourth’s Generation’s Vision: Sustainable Practices and Innovation
Cosimo continues to oversee production, while the fourth generation—Marzia, Angelo, and Francesca—infuse new ideas into the family’s traditional winemaking practices. This is the land of Primitivo, Negroamaro, and Susumaniello grapes that the Varvagliones have made their own. From their flagship Papale Oro, made from vineyards once owned by Pope Benedict XIII, to their award-winning Private Collection, the family has mastered these native varietals, putting Puglia on the global winemaking map.
Building on their father’s legacy of crafting iconic native wines, the fourth generation is forging new approaches, such as producing de-alcoholized wines and creating fresher, juicier styles of Primitivo and other varieties. Their embrace of sustainable practices—both in the vineyard and winery—reflects their dedication to charting their own course. They’ve introduced Nomacorc Ocean corks in select bottles to help reduce marine pollution, use drones for precise crop management, and maintain bee farms to naturally control pests without chemicals. In collaboration with the University of Bari, they are also focused on soil preservation and carbon-neutral farming, highlighting their dedication to environmental stewardship. Additionally, Marzia, the head of the Association of Young Viticulture Entrepreneurs (AGIVI), is expanding the horizons of both her family’s winemaking and the broader Italian winemaking scene.
Their innovative spirit also shines through in their “12 e Mezzo” range, organic wines with eye-catching labels and a lower alcohol content of 12.5 percent. These wines have contributed to Varvaglione’s status as one of Europe’s fastest-growing wineries. While I was spending time at the winery, Marzia recalled how her parents were initially hesitant about the line but now fully support the siblings’ vision. This range’s labels are made from recycled cotton and showcase wildflowers and tactile varnish highlighting bees, while the fashion-forward labels incorporate playful patterns like polka dots and houndstooth.
Each Varvaglione family member also has a wine dedicated to them. For Angelo, it’s Tatu, a delightful blend of Primitivo del Salento with ten percent Aglianico. For Marzia, it’s Marfi, a Verdeca and Sauvignon Blanc blend. Even the fifth generation is making its mark—Marzia’s daughter Carlotta will soon have her own wine, a sparkling 100 percent Fiano made in the traditional method, with secondary fermentation occurring in the bottle, a first for the winery.
Explore the Wines and Estate
The Varvaglione portfolio is as impressive as it is diverse, offering some of the best values in Italian wine while patently communicating the region’s personality. A visit to their estate is highly recommended for those interested in experiencing the magic of the Varvaglione family and Puglian hospitality firsthand. They offer a variety of experiences, including garden wine tastings (be sure to also try their olive oil) and even horseback riding through the vineyards.
Here are some noteworthy wines available in the U.S. (we hope more find their way to the U.S. market) and a few to look for when you visit their estate or retailers in other countries:
Available in the United States (all imported by WINESU):
Varvaglione Primitivo di Manduria D.O.P. “Papale” 2022 ($30): The 2022 Primitivo di Manduria Papale reveals a bouquet of black currant, black plum, black cherries, wet soil, and toasted almond that carry over to the palate, which offers up a tremendous push-pull of dense fruit and savory sensations. The wine is framed with well-integrated tannins and fresh acidity. It’s ready for all your fall and holiday meals. 93
Varvaglione Negroamaro Del Santo I.G.P. “12 e Mezzo” 2022 ($18): Negroamaro’s roots in Puglia stretch back to roughly 3000 years ago when Greek settlers arrived in the region from across the Adriatic Sea. Here we have a modern and fresh expression of the Negroamaro grape (which translates as “black” (negro) and “bitter” (amaro), at 12.5 percent alcohol by volume. Despite the translation, there is no bitterness here. On the palate, persistent notes of vanilla enhance its velvety and soft flavor. This juicy Puglian red is far more beguiling than some of its traditional counterparts, with sweet black cherry and plum fruit notes and a touch of cocoa rounding out this succulent wine. 92
Varvaglione Chardonnay Puglia I.G.P. “12 e Mezzo” Organic 2022 ($16): This 2022 Chardonnay is an incredible bargain, and the fact that it’s organic only adds to its appeal. Highly refreshing and crisp, this wine captivates the palate with its vibrant minerality, delivering a clean, refreshing profile that draws you in with each sip. Flavors of lemon zest, citrus, and ripe nectarine burst forward, creating a harmonious balance between fruit and acidity. What truly sets this Chardonnay apart is its depth—expressed not through weight, but through its remarkable persistence. 93
Varvaglione Primitivo Salento I.G.P. “12 e Mezzo” Organic 2022 ($16): The 2022 Primitivo 12 e Mezzo is a lighter version of Primitivo, with lower alcohol than most of its contemporaries. Still, it has rich tannin and a generous fruit profile of plum, currants, and dried blackberry aromas and flavors. You get the sun-kissed softness and lushness you should expect from this variety. The lushness is balanced by fresh and bright fruit that follow through to a long and deeply satisfying finish, making it a wine that punches well above its price point. 92
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To Enjoy at the Winery or Buy Outside the USA (though hopefully in the U.S. soon):
Varvaglione Primitivo del Salento IGP “Tatu” 2021 ($13): “Tatu” is the nickname for Angelo, second-born son of Cosimo and Maria Teresa. This sumptuous blend of Primitivo with 10 percent Aglianico bursts with notes of spiced blackberries and blueberries with a core of rich minerality that all open up on a medium-full-bodied palate with tannins that are sandy but not aggressive – a perfect wine for a spicy pizza. 94
Varvaglione Red Blend “Masseria Pizzariello” Puglia I.G.P 2020 ($65): An ode to the family Masseria, graced with paper doors that open on the wine’s label, this exquisite blend of Primitivo, Negroamaro, and Aglianico unfolds with a bouquet of cassis, mint, tobacco, cedarwood, black tea, and subtle notes of tar. On the palate, vibrant acidity meets ripe, juicy fruit—bursting with cassis, red currants, and sour cherries—filling a robust, medium-full body. The tannins are perfectly ripe, offering a harmonious finish that lingers with depth and elegance. 95
Varvaglione Susumaniello Puglia IGP 2022 ($17): According to winesearcher.com, Susumaniello is one of the world’s rarest varieties used to make wine. This 2022 Susuamaniello stands out for its charm and complexity with delicious red and black berries, a subtle hint of sour cherry and blueberry, and balsamic and cocoa powder notes. The Susumaniello is perfectly balanced between a deep fruited core, bright acidity, dusty tannins, and great persistence. 93
Varvaglione Fiano del Salento “Margrande” 2023 ($11): Puglia is making significant strides with the Fiano grape, and this 2023 vintage, made from 100 percent Fiano, is a standout example of the grape’s crisp, uncomplicated character. The bouquet reveals enticing layers of ripe pear, mango, and a subtle hint of toasted almond. On the palate, the wine strikes the perfect balance of intensity and persistence, while still maintaining its approachable, easy-drinking appeal. 92