J. Wilkes Wines, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Blanc 2022 ($35)

I’ve been on record for a long time while maintaining that Pinot Blanc is among the world’s most under-rated varieties. Known as Pinot Bianco in Italian and Weissburgunder in Germany and Austria, it is not dissimilar from Chardonnay in weight or texture, but generally loses its subtle distinctiveness if vinified with new oak (which is to say, if it is “Chardonnized”). This example shows virtually no overt oak notes, which is to its benefit, allowing its restrained aromas and flavors of ripe pears and Golden apples to hold center stage. This rendition isn’t overly complex, but that very restraint is what often makes Pinot Blanc such a remarkably versatile partner for different foods. J. Wilkes is a brand under the Miller Family Wine Company, and the back label indicates Jeff Wilkes as the founder.
91 Michael Franz