Bien Nacido Estate, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 ($65)

This is certainly among the handful of most famous Chardonnays from the southern half of California, and this release from the 2022 vintage lives up to that reputation. Rich but not heavy, complex but not due to a heavy hand with oak or cellar manipulation, it excels on the strength of its superb fruit. This is – in turn – to credit the famous vineyard as well as judicious restraint of the winemaking team. Medium-plus body offers notable generosity on the palate, with fruit notes centered on orchard fruits, with a touch of citrus and tropical suggestions as well. The spice and toast notes from oak are so subtle that they almost need to be inferred from the accents they lend to the fruit, which is high praise in my book in terms of integration of the wine and the skill of the team that made it.
94 Michael Franz