Bodegas Riojanas, Rioja Gran Reserva, La Rioja, Spain “Monte Real” 2014 ($48, Bodegas Riojanas USA)

Gran Reserva wines from Rioja require a minimum of five years before release, with at least two years in barrel. The grapes for Gran Reserva are always the highest quality, in this case Tempranillo from Bodegas Riojanas’ best vineyard. Fitting the expected profile, the mid-weight but not ponderous Gran Reserva from Monte Real conveys an impeccable balance of darker fruit and an appealing savory, almost leathery, kick. Bright and lively, this wine at a decade of age shows the magic of aging. Savor it with a steak.
93 Michael Apstein