Laherte Frères, Champagne (France) “Ultradition” Brut NV ($56)

A red grape-heavy blend (60 percent Pinot Meunier and 10 percent Pinot Noir) imparts power to this while the Chardonnay provides a strong and balancing backbone. It is a powerful argument against those who say Pinot Meunier is the lesser of the trio of Champagne grapes. Part of its luxurious richness comes, no doubt, from reserve wines that had been aged in barrel on their lees and comprise 40 percent of the blend. It is a fine way to start a meal, but its muscle allows you to enjoy it throughout one.
93 Michael Apstein