It’s the holiday season…and you’re looking at a schedule of company parties, invitations from friends…and a gift list that might be longer than you’d like. Add to this that you’re more than likely “the wine person” in the circles that you roll in, which may have you feeling the weight of such responsibility. I’m here to tell you to take heart, as this is a golden opportunity for you to turn people on to something new and different in the world of sparkling wine.
When I was a young, aspiring jazz musician, I had a responsibility, a duty even, to know the heritage of my chosen instrument – its role in the evolution of the music in general, who the great players were in its history, the tone qualities that certain players had that found audiences, and how what those players were doing evolved over time. I still have a wall of recordings that were the campus of my study. And while even today I still reach for personal favorites, I’m always on the lookout for something that will turn my musical head in a different direction. I always loved DownBeat magazine’s annual critic’s poll, which, after listing their favorites, listed their votes for “talent deserving wider recognition” – and would find myself seeking out those players to see what was pushing the envelope to expand my own horizons.
With that spirit in mind, here’s a “baker’s dozen” list of sparklers, ranging from $12 to $85 per bottle, that I believe deserve wider recognition and my impressions of them, with the hope that you’ll find a few that you can use to expand your personal horizons as well as those that you like to share with. I’ve listed them in alphabetical order by producer as a point of organization only, and I’ve included a couple “avant garde” items as well. Saluté!
Amirault, Crémant de Loire AOP (Loire Valley, France) Sparkling Wine Brut NV ($45): This is the serious side of Crémant de Loire, showing uncommon depth and weight. There’s a little Cabernet Franc in the mix, and it really helps to layer up both the aroma and flavor profiles, and long lees aging doesn’t hurt either. It’s quite austere in the most pleasant of ways, seemingly targeted as an aperitif. That’s how I would deploy this, adding some mild appetizers. 92
Argyle, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Sparkling Wine “Extended Tirage Brut” 2013 ($85): I’ve been impressed with the extended tirage program at Argyle for some time now, and this continues the string of successful high-class bubblies. Tasting it blind alongside a French Champagne of similar price point, this shows a depth of character that’s worthy of the company, with the added bonus of ten years on the lees. Another high recommendation in the line. Contains 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. 96
Bolle Sparkling Rosé Non-Alcoholic NV ($30): So – non-alcoholic wine. Is it wine? Is it something else? This product has a dash of alcohol – less than .5% – which legally places it in the “NA” category. Is it good? I would say yes, it’s quite good. As a sparkling Rosé, it fills the bill with a fine mousse, a creamy texture, apple and strawberry flavors and a citric finish that’s clean and crisp. This is just the thing you might want to have around for your non-imbibing friends for Sunday brunch, among other occasions. A timely idea, some would say. Contains Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. 92
Delamotte, Champagne (France) Brut NV ($80): Pretty classy stuff – there’s a depth here that pushes this bottling into the top tier of the “under a bill” club. Layered aromas and flavors of pear, brioche and a faint hint of red fruit are present throughout, and the fine mousse helps with a creamy mid palate texture that crisps up nicely in the finish, where the flavors linger long. I trust you’ll find this at a discount, but it’s already a great buy at list when you’re looking to impress. Contains 55% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, and 10% Pinot Meunier. 95
Fiol, Prosecco DOC (Italy) Prosecco Rosé Extra Dry 2021 ($22): You may not think of Prosecco as being fresh when carrying a three-year-old vintage date, but this bottle manages just fine, with aromas of nectarine, pear, citrus and faint white flowers. The palate is bright and festively fizzy, with bold strawberry and Meyer lemon fruit that stay bright through the finish thanks to a dash of residual sugar. Nice! 91
Henri Giraud, Champagne (France) Champagne Brut “ADN Esprit Nature” NV ($55): This is a real find, particularly for fans of the bolder Champagne styles like Krug and Bollinger. Toasted brioche, apple and pear aromas are deep and complemented by a hint of toffee. A rich, creamy midpalate with a slight (and intended) oxidative character makes those elements come alive in festive style, with uncommon depth and length, particularly at this price point, and for a brut nature (no dosage) it’s extremely approachable by a wide audience. “ADN” is French for DNA, and this displays the DNA of exactly what makes Champagne sought after the world over. Bravo! Contains 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. 95
Hoffmann & Rathbone (England) Sparkling Wine Blanc de Blancs 2013 ($68): This is 100% Chardonnay, 40% barrel fermented, and disgorged after nine years and nine months en tirage. It shows lemon, lime, pear and hints of brioche and peach. It is remarkably bright with a very fine mousse giving it a rich texture. Pleasing toasty notes linger long and will have you finding the bottom of the bottle in no time. This is the real deal. 96
La Vieille Ferme (France) Sparkling Blanc Reserve NV ($12): This wine is a marketplace achievement. It’s everywhere, it’s inexpensive, and it’s delicious. It pulses with sweet apple and peach aromas and flavors but doesn’t leave a sweet impression—just bright apple fruit with a little Meyer lemon accent that will have you buying by the case. Well done! 91
Loimer, Niederösterreich (Austria) Sekt Blanc de Blanc “Langenlois Grosse Reserve Brut Nature” NV ($50): Bone dry as expected with the Brut Nature designation, this wine shows aromas of baked bread crust, soft white flowers and soft citrus fruit. There’s energetic acidity on the palate, with a creamy mousse that carries lemon, lime, green apple and wet stone character. And 36 months on the lees makes it quite long, with the toasty notes really coming on in the finish. This is fabulous! Contains 60% Chardonnay, 36% Pinot Blanc and 4% Pinot Gris. 95
Meadiocrity (No Appellation) Traditional Mead “Foundation” NV ($20): If you’re a holiday party host, you know the value of having an array of beverages available to please your guests, and it’s particularly fun to be able to throw a few curveballs into the mix. Mead (honey wine) is gaining some marketplace traction of late, and while there are plenty of so-so or worse examples out there, this traditional style offering from Meadiocrity is anything but mediocre. It’s the best traditional mead I’ve come across, delivering a clean, creamy texture without becoming cloying or sticky, with snappy apple character, honeyed complexity (think Viognier) and just the right carbonation level to liven things up without making it seem like you’re drinking something other than wine. A light sweetness is very attractive, and the fresh finish will keep you sipping. Delicious! 92
Miguel Torres, Maule Valley (Chile) Brut Rosé “Estelado” NV ($19): Pais is a red grape variety that until recently was the most widely planted variety in Chile. This iteration shows that it’s much more than a one trick pony, making a layered, complex sparkler that is quite attractive on all fronts – particularly the price front. This took a high award at the 2024 Critics Challenge, and it’s still delivering. A superior value for its quality! 94
Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Sparkling Wine Clark Road Vineyard 2020 ($55): The premier sparkling wine producer in California has just recently released this, their very first vineyard-designated offering. As you might expect, it’s a winner on all fronts, and it is a slight departure from the usual house style that has brought the label to such prominence. The hallmarks are here of course – a fine, creamy mousse, with beautiful perlage in the glass, bold aromas and flavors – but the stylistic difference comes from the doságe level. This is noticeably drier than the regular non-vintage or vintage L’Ermitage offerings, and it’s a welcome addition to the portfolio. It renders the regional apple character found in the other wines in a more austere fashion, allowing more palate real estate to subtle cherry fruit, stony mineral and toasted croissant notes. I suspect that winemaker Arnaud Weyrich, the driver behind the estate’s success, has wanted to offer a “grower” sort of wine for a while, but also wanted to wait for the perfect opportunity. Well done! Contains 76.8% Pinot Noir and 23.2% Chardonnay. 95
Scharffenberger, Mendocino County (California) Sparkling Rosé NV ($30): This has been around since 1981 and was one time partly owned by Champagne Pommery among others. At one time it was rebranded by one of those owners as “Pacific Echo,” but now the Scharffenberger brand isn’t only back, it’s out there in the marketplace and worth seeking out. The Rosé features suggestions of strawberry, rose petal, cherry, nut, and a little toasty note, all of which ride a nice creamy mousse through a long, clean finish. 91
As we wrap 2024, I wish you and yours all the best for the season and in the New Year.
Keep up the good search!