Château de La Chaize, Brouilly (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2022 ($50, Vintus)

I know, 95 points for a Beaujolais? Yes, this is one of, if not the best, Brouilly I have ever tasted. So, yes 95 points to get your attention. The La Chaize vineyard, a monopole, lies just behind the château on a very steep southeast facing slope. Stéphane Charreyron, the commercial director, notes that the slope is so steep (good for drainage) that they need a special tractor to work the vines. They allow grass to grow between the vines, which forces the vines’ roots to go deep as the grass sucks up the superficial water. The engaging 2022 delivers a beguiling combination of dark fruit, minerals, all sprinkled with a touch of black pepper, which Chareyron insists comes from the site because they perceive the peppery notes every year. The La Chaize vineyard will likely be tapped for Premier Cru status if that classification ever comes to Beaujolais.
95 Michael Apstein