Dog Point Vineyard, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($27)

Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand’s Marlborough region (located on the north-eastern coast of the nation’s South Island) is perhaps the greatest commercial success story in the entire wine world during the past quarter century. That’s largely because even inexpensive renditions from the category offer strikingly ripe flavors of citrus and tropical fruits that are driven by zesty but not sour acidity. But here’s a bit of a problem: because it is possible to get admirably representative examples for, say, $14 in major markets, most consumers never “trade up” to try a more ambitious bottling. Dog Point makes a Sauvignon that is among the best higher-end ones to try (as well as a very fine Pinot Noir that is every bit as consistent and fine). In this wine you’ll find all of the aromas and flavors to be expected from the breed, but with more definition and purity, less overt sweetness, and much better integration so that fruit and acidity don’t seem to be pulling against one another. If you love Kiwi Sauvignons but stall out at $14 when buying them, this is the wine to show you what you’ve been missing without breaking the bank.
94 Michael Franz