There’s nothing like getting off the main road for a different perspective on a place. I once had the opportunity to fly over the Napa Valley in a small plane and was amazed at the number of sprawling estates and “McMansions” that dotted the mountains on both sides of the valley, few of which are visible from either Highway 29 or the Silverado Trail.
You don’t need an airplane, though, to see one of Napa’s newest
jaw-dropping structures. South of Calistoga, on the west side of North Saint Helena Highway (H-29) is a small sign, close to the ground in the shade of some trees, with the words ‘Castello di Amarosa.’ Climb the cypress-lined road through a vineyard, over a small rise, and you’re met with the improbable sight of an imposing 12th century medieval Tuscan-style castle, standing on a narrow shelf of land with Diamond Mountain as a backdrop. It’s an unexpected sight and just a little startling with the same impact you’d get from good trompe l’oeil.
Most assuredly this is not Tuscany, but Castello di Amarosa, the vision and dream of Dario (Daryl) Sattui, is no illusion. Turreted and moated, the 121,000 square feet stone castle has 107 rooms, with 95 of the rooms devoted to winemaking. Although the official word is that Sattui, who also owns V. Sattui Winery in St. Helena, does not want the Castello di Amarosa wine operation to be viewed as an afterthought, at the completion of a tour of the impressive castle, one could not be faulted for thinking so.
Dario Sattui is a man with a passion for castles. ‘Years ago, in Italy, when Dario and I were attending a class on the Italian language, I went off many times with him to visit castles in the Italian countryside,’ recalls Georg Salzner, the Austrian born president of Castello di Amarosa. Those visits and many hours of research left Sattui with the germ of an idea that one day he would build a modest castle in California.
Today, after 15 years of construction, the castle boasts five 
defensive towers (‘In case we have something lobbed at us from across the valley,’ jokes Salzner, referring to Sterling Vineyards, clearly visible on a hill east of the castle). The castle also incorporates 8,000 tons of hand-chiseled stone, an ornately decorated Great Hall with a 22 foot high ceiling, a chapel, and a drawbridge–among many other features constructed with materials and artifacts imported from Italy and Austria.
Four of the eight levels in the castle are underground, mainly for winemaking and wine storage. Each room has a unique shape, size and ceiling design, the maze of rooms is interconnected by narrow passageways and ramps. When necessary, cellar workers use the ramps to move barrels since there are no service elevators in the castle. On the lowest level there is even a dungeon housing prison cells and a torture chamber, compete with an iron maiden and stretching rack.
Beyond all the medieval splendor and over-the-top hokey features like the torture chamber and one tower with turrets that appear to have been destroyed by an outside bombardment (from Sterling?), 
there is a working winery, producing 5,000 cases of mainly Italian varietal wines, sold only at the castle tasting room and directly to the consumer. Veteran winemaker Brooks Painter uses Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from the 30-acres of estate vines around the castle, plus additional grapes from Diamond Mountain, Rutherford and the Anderson Valley to make varietally correct, refreshing Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Rosato di Sangiovese, Merlot, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and a ‘Super Tuscan’ blend.
It would be easy to dismiss Castello di Amarosa as another outlandish example of over-the-top Napa Valley winery 
architecture. And make no mistake, the castle is the culmination of one man’s $35 million obsession, but viewed simply as a feat of craftsmanship and the fulfillment of a dream, Castello di Amarosa is indeed impressive. Decide for yourself with a visit next time you are in the Napa Valley. For details on tours and tastings, go online to www.castellodiamarosa.com.
6