One of the drawbacks of writing about and tasting wine for a living is the danger of becoming sated. After a few thousand wines you begin to look for that electrifying taste experience that got you hooked on wine in the first place. I know, this sounds like a sob story that deserves “Poor Baby!” in response, but as in any other continual professional activity, repetition and boredom can set in even for wine tasters.
Then, along comes a wine you had nearly forgotten and that old spark is re-kindled, the drug takes hold, and you’re off again on an
unforgettable tasting journey. It happened to me the other day when I tasted the three newly released Williams & Humbert rare-aged Solera Especial sherries. Simply stated, Williams & Humbert Dos Cortados Palo Cortado VOS, Jalifa Amontilado VOS and Don Guido Rare Old Sweet Pedro Ximenez VORS are every bit as good as the advance press and worth every cent.
In July 2000 the Consejo Regulador for D.O Jerez established the VOS (Very Old Sherry) and VORS (Very Old Rare Sherry) classifications, wherein VOS must be aged a minimum of 20 years and VORS is required to be aged a minimum of 30 years. This lengthy stay in Sherry’s noted solera system of fractional blending imparts a distinctive characteristic to extended wood-aged fortified wines and wine spirits called rancio, a tasting term that reminds some of overripe fruit, rancid butter, veined cheeses and even a metallic component. Rancio is a deliberate maderization (excessive oxidation) that is a slap in the face to a still wine but the kiss of love to a fortified wine.
A solera is a series of barrels, usually in two or three tiers, called scales, that is used to gradually move a young Sherry from one level to the next, while slowly blending a fraction of old wine with the newer wine. Essentially what happens is that a specific amount of mature Sherry is removed from the lowest tier to be replaced by a like amount from the tier above and on up the scale with the new wine going into the top row of barrels. The solera is the very soul of Sherry production, and solera ageing gave these three sherries their remarkable character:
Williams & Humbert Dos Cortados Rare Old Dry Palo Cortado was aged for 20 years in barrel, finished at 19.5% alcohol and priced at $50. The color of this old beauty is medium golden nut-brown, and the medium-full bouquet has straight-ahead scents of roasted hazelnuts mingled with exotic spices. Dry and textured with subtle rancio notes, the flavors are full and complex with spice and roasted nut back notes. A Palo Cortado is an odd duck in the Sherry hierarchy, falling somewhere between Amontillado and Oloroso. This is no odd duck, though, with its long complex and memorable finish. 92
Williams & Humbert Jalifa Rare Old Dry Amontillado Solera Especial 
was aged for 30 years, finished at 20.5% alcohol and priced at $70. This excellent Amontillado underwent a dual aging process, first as a fino for several years, then after being fortified with distilled grape spirits, it was aged further to achieve the desired level of oxidation. It features a brilliant medium nut-brown color, complex bouquet showing vanilla and butterscotch, roasted hazelnuts and a trace of rancio. The flavors are dry and complex, with toffee and toasted nuts, spice and brisk acidity. This deeply structured Amontillado has length and complexity with a long smooth finish. 92
Williams & Humbert Don Guido Rare Old Sweet Pedro Ximenez Solera Especial was aged for 20 years, finished at 18% alcohol and is priced at $50. The first thing that attracts the lucky consumer about this luscious old PX is its very deep mahogany color. Then, when a small amount is poured into a cordial glass, the Sherry coats the inside of the glass with a golden-brown hue, like spilled curry on a white table cover. The bouquet is redolent of dried prunes and apricots mingled with hints of spice that carry over to the sweet unctuous flavors. While not offering the finesse and rarity of the Jalifa or even the Dos Cortados, this PX is a glorious dessert in a glass! 96
It may be a cliché to say that Sherry is the most under-appreciated wine made today, but if you try one or all three of these Williams & Humbert rare old sherries as a dessert or after-dinner wine, you’ll ignore the nay-sayers and become a true Sherry fan.
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