California Wine for Dummies
By Ed McCarthy and Mary Ewing-Mulligan ($17, Wiley Publishing)
My Wine Review Online colleagues Ed McCarthy and Mary Ewing-Mulligan have written another helpful book in their Wines for Dummies
series. This one, on California wine, could be the most useful of them all for North American readers, since 70% of all wine consumed in the United States comes from California. If you’re already familiar with this duo’s engaging style, and with the Dummies’ user-friendly format, you know that you’re in for the literary equivalent of having two old friends take you by the hand and lead you safely through some complex terrain, pointing out useful signposts and interesting scenery along the way. Experienced wine consumers may find some of the data pretty basic, but the book is chock-full of titillating tidbits as well as substantial information from which we can all learn. Do you know, for example, the difference between “variety” and “varietal” (the answer is on page 27), or which was the best vintage from 1990 to 2000 (page 230)? Can you name eighteen consistently reliable California Merlots costing less than $15 (page 128), and can you guess what gets the authors’ vote as “the least known most important white wine grape variety in the world” (page 98)?
The book offers tips on making a pilgrimage to California wine country, including which wineries are the most hospitable, which ones have great art collections, and everything you need to know about tours, tastings, and transportation. The authors steer the reader towards great places to dine in California wine country, and they offer succinct suggestions for lodging in the state’s most famous wine regions as well as in lesser- known wine districts such as the Anderson Valley (“The place to stay in the Anderson Valley is the Boonville Hotel in the town of Boonville. It dates back to the 19th century, and it offers a lot of charm along with good food.”).
It’s hard for even the most dedicated wine professional to keep up with the constantly evolving details surrounding California wine–the regulations, nuances, brands, prices, labels, climate variations and vineyard designations. Because McCarthy and Ewing-Mulligan know their subject so thoroughly they truly can help demystify it for the rest of us. They tell you everything you need to know about AVAs–American Viticultural Areas–as well as WHY you need to know. They de-code cult Cabs, zero in on Zin and share insights about Chardonnay. And while their writing style is simple, the authors never talk down to us, the readers. Yes, the book’s format is formulaic, but it’s never boring, and is sometimes even amusing. What other wine writers can you think of who compare wine to a cat? “Some of the very best wines we’ve enjoyed,” they write,” have been made from Pinot Noir. But like our largest male cat, Max (who is so lovable and yet drives us crazy most of the time), Pinot Noir wines often frustrate us.”
In the book’s introduction the authors write, “California today is truly a land of opportunity for wine lovers.” California Wine for Dummies will help any smart wine lover embrace that opportunity to the fullest.
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