Developing a broad wine list is easy; developing a well-curated wine list is a feat. Pascaline Lepeltier’s Chambers manages to do both, having an immaculately well-sourced book of wines from all over the world, with a particular focus on natural wines and wines of France. The list features both old wines and young wines, wines of traditionalists and wines of the avant-garde, and importantly, wines of all price points—including a striking number of bottles under $100, and many under $50.
If you are not familiar with her, Pascaline Lepeltier is a French ex-pat and decorated Master Sommelier, having earned the title of Best Sommelier in France and placing fourth in the Best Sommelier in the World competition earlier this year. You may have also seen her in 2018’s SOMM III. In 2022, Pascaline and her partners opened Chambers, which touts itself as a wine-focused, farm-to-table restaurant in Manhattan’s TriBeCa neighborhood.
Upon entering Chambers, one is greeted with a lively, convivial atmosphere. Light wood accents and a neutral color palette make the space feel warm and welcoming. Track lights above provide ample illumination for each table, while also creating a dimmer, moodier atmosphere in the more secluded areas. The design feels intentional and well thought out.
During my recent visit, I had a fantastic experience. The meal started with a glass of Fernando de Castilla’s Fino Sherry. Its bright notes of citrus, almonds, and salinity paired perfectly with our starters, which included a lovely squid dish and a fluke crudo.
After that, Pascaline stopped by the table to see what we might like to drink with our main course—you’ll frequently see her on the floor, checking that each table’s beverage needs are being met. Knowing that I could not be in better hands, I asked her to bring by whatever was interesting and drinking well that night. Of course, Pascaline did not disappoint. She presented us with a bottle of Roc D’Anglade 2013 Vin de Pays Rouge.
Roc D’Anglage’s Vin de Pays Rouge is a Carignan-dominant blend, rounded out by Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault. A decade on, the 2013 was drinking wonderfully. Its tannins were just beginning to mellow while still providing pleasant structure and texture. Red plum, cherry, orange peel, dried violets, olive, and tree moss all melded together nicely with the wine’s modest 13% alcohol and balanced acidity, creating a delicately complex and elegant wine. It sang next to my pork loin, crispy potatoes, and peppers.
Food allergies make desserts a difficult proposition for me, so I opted for a liquid treat to end the meal: Domaine d’Aurensan’s 1990 Armagnac. With a sweet vanilla note more reminiscent of Cognac and the spicy complexity typical of great Armagnac, it provided the perfect finale to the meal. If you prefer a more traditional dessert instead of (or alongside!) a liquid treat, my wife said that the mascarpone was out of this world.
Be sure you don’t miss out on this gem of a restaurant when you next find yourself in New York City!
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