The U.S. wine industry is in mourning over the loss of its most
gentlemanly and quietly-determined spokesman. David Lake MW, former winemaker for Columbia Winery in Washington, died October 5, 2009 after a lengthy illness. Lake was 66.
Born in England, Lake entered the wine trade in 1969 and became a Master of Wine (MW) in 1975. He studied winemaking and viticulture at UC Davis, followed by cellar work in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Lake’s big break came in 1979 when he was hired as the enologist at Associated Vintners, in Bellevue, Washington. A-V would later change its name to Columbia Winery and move its winery to Woodinville. One year later, Lake was promoted to Chief Winemaker, a position he held until his retirement from Columbia Winery in 2006.
Although quiet and reserved, Lake was determined to immerse himself in American wine as completely as he could. In 1978, while contemplating his move from Oregon to Washington, Lake accepted an invitation to serve as a wine judge at the Los Angeles County Fair Wine Competition. That same year I began judging at LA, and while David and I served on different panels, we soon became friends, crossing paths many times in the future at wine events and wine competitions in Washington and California. Lake continued to participate as a wine judge, including a stint as Chief Judge for the San Diego National Wine Competition.
Among the many contributions that earned him the honorific of “Dean of Washington Winemaking,” Lake bottled Washington’s first vineyard-designated wines in 1981, a string of Cabernet Sauvignons that moved the style of Columbia Winery red wines more toward a European model. He also formed a long collaboration with grape grower Mike Sauer, owner of Red Willow in the Yakima Valley. In 1985, Lake persuaded Sauer to plant Syrah at Red Willow and Lake made Washington’s first varietal Syrah for Columbia in 1988.
David Lake was a very private person and was never comfortable being the public spokesman for Columbia wines. He preferred to stay in the background and let his wines speak to their quality and style. Lake’s reluctance to have the spotlight on him and not the wines was no more evident then when Columbia released a line of reserve-style “David Lake Signature” wines with his name emblazoned across the front label. But being the proper gentleman, he objected in private but publicly endorsed the wines.
Lake is survived by his wife, Dr. Connie Sile-Lake. Dr. Sile-Lake asks that condolences be sent to [email protected] or mailed to Columbia Winery, Re: David Lake, PO Box 1248, Woodinville, WA 98072.
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