Despite Boston’s moniker, “Cradle of Liberty,” we in Massachusetts
cannot bring wine into a restaurant and have its staff open it. It’s
not a problem of having to pay corkage, but of outright prohibition of
the whole practice. So I’m always happy when I am in New York where
many restaurants allow patrons to bring their own wine and open it for a
modest corkage.
But I went from happy to amazed when hearing the response to a BYO
request that was put to Justin Warner of Do or Dine, a recently opened
hole-in-the-wall place in Brooklyn. “Sure, you can bring wine. Tell me
what you’re bringing and we’ll be sure to make a meal to go with it.”
In retrospect, that response sums up the whole experience. They’re
enthusiastically helpful and cheery at Do or Dine. They take their
food, which is terrific, very seriously, but not themselves.
This shoestring operation, open for less than two months, focuses on the
food, not the décor. Warner and his co-chef, George McNeese, turn out a
variety of imaginative and whimsically named dishes from a Lilliputian
sized kitchen.
The menu alerts diners to their attitude. Do or Dine’s Caesar Salad, a
core of tender roasted romaine leaves topped with a creamy dressing, is
finished with a knife stuck upright though a smelt filet draped on top.
On the menu, it’s listed as E tu Brute. Another menu item is, “Mussels,
Flexed.” You get the idea.
To accompany one of the BYO wines, the bone-dry, but delectably creamy
Laurent Perrier Ultra Brut, was an array of appetizers: Hand cut steak
tartare, sui mai with a creamy wasabi dressing, and what could be the
world’s best deviled eggs. A crunchy layer of bacon nestled underneath
the flavor packed deviled yolks provided a pleasing punch.
The Ultra Brut showed how well Champagne in general, and this one in
particular, goes with food. Its firm acidity cut through and amplified
both the robust flavors of the cleverly named Taco Tako, a slightly
charcoal-tinged taco filled with tender octopus, seaweed and crème
fraiche (tako is Japanese for octopus) and, continuing with the Japanese
influence, the slightly spicy Nippon Nachos, delicately steamed
dumplings topped with pico de gallo and cheese.
Grilled salmon with olives, asparagus and crushed potatoes was a perfect
match for Louis Jadot’s 1995 Echezéaux. The grand cru married a
weightless, but penetrating, earthiness and fruitiness. To show just
how versatile red Burgundy can be, the kitchen produced a rich and
decadent cumin- and lime-rubbed crispy and fatty lamb breast, another
winning match with the Echezeaux.
In addition to Warner and McNeese, Luke Jackson is the “Spiritual”
Advisor, as in spirits and wine. A fourth partner, Perry Gargano, who
Warner refers to as “the man upstairs,” is responsible for design.
Warner expects to obtain a liquor and wine license in about two weeks.
“Then we’ll make it rain. Wine and spirits are important facets of the
restaurant.” It’s no surprise that wine will be a focus since all four
once worked at The Modern, where star sommelier Belinda Chang created a
superb wine program. Judging by the quality of the food and
refreshingly irreverent attitude at Do or Dine, I predict the wine
offerings will be outstanding and, like the food, reasonably priced.
I just hope they still let you bring your own.
* * *
Do or Dine, 1108 Bedford Avenue, Brooklyn, NY. Telephone 781-684-2290.
2