BORDEAUX, France – My initial impressions of the 2006 Bordeaux presented at this week’s primeurs closely parallel those of my WRO colleague, Michael Apstein (scroll down).
I missed the first official tastings (Sauternes and Barsac) on Monday, but plunged into the young barrel samples on Tuesday with the presentation of reds and whites from Graves and Pessac-Leognan at Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte.
Advance word on this vintage had been pessimistic. Weather during the vintage was a roller coaster ride for the vignerons of Bordeaux, but the better Chateaux have a strong record of grappling with the challenges of poor weather conditions since the mid-1980s.
Choosing your wines well in such vintages is crucial. I encountered a number of exceptional reds and whites (the whites are more consistent because most of the Sauvignon blanc grapes were in before the rains hit in mid-September). The good news for consumers without deep pockets is that the ample number of poor wines will restrain pricing on the better wines.
My top five reds from the first round of tastings were led by the stellar Pape Clement (95 points), followed by Smith Haut Lafitte (94), Haut Bergey (93), and Latour Martillac and La Louviere (92). The beautifully layered Pape Clement was very impressive, showing an expressive nose even at this early stage, spice, firm but sweet tannins, power and, above all, balance.
The Smith Haut Lafitte blanc (94 points) impressed me most among the whites. The Chateau’s Florence Cathiard told me she believes it’s better than the 2005, which is exceptional. Though quite young it already exhibits the trademark ‘peach’ nose of Smith Haut Lafitte blanc, extraordinary balance, and more minerality than I’ve noticed in a SHL blanc in years. Haut Bergey (93) also seems to be very promising, as well as the Rahoul, Carbonnieux and Bouscaut (92).
If any of the above show up on the futures market, they could very well represent some of the best value in high quality Bordeaux since 2001. Prices should begin to emerge on the 2006 futures over the next few weeks.
I should note the top two Chateaux of the region in terms of prestige — Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion — did not present their wines at the offical Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux tastings.
Photos: The 2006 wines of Graves and Pessac-Leognan (top) were lined up for the blind tasting at Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte; It was a good day for Daniel Cathiard of Smith Haut Lafitte — the sun was shining and both of his wines showed well at the 2006 Bordeaux en primeurs.
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