Michel Rolland is perhaps the world’s most famous winemaker. From his home base in Bordeaux, the winemaking guru’s influence reaches across the globe, from France to Argentina to California.
His style of wine is robust and full-bodied, much like the man himself. Rolland has strong opinions on everything wine-related and is never at a loss for words. So it was hardly a surprise that on the eve of the annual Bordeaux En Primeurs tastings hosted by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, he would have his own thoughts on the 2015 vintage that was about to be evaluated by both the wine trade and wine press.
During an interview with a French magazine, Rolland declared the 2015 a great vintage and, in advance of the evaluations, criticized any journalists who didn’t see it his way, suggesting they lacked whatever the French word is for that part of the anatomy that is associated with being male. He also observed — correctly — that wine journalism no longer possesses a single voice so influential, a la Robert Parker Jr. in his heyday, that it can create a stampede to purchase the latest vintage of Bordeaux with just a few words of praise.
The outburst was the talk of the tastings throughout the week. The big question among journalists was what to make of it, and whether or not to take offense.
First, let me say I personally took no offense. Robert Parker Jr.’s decades-long sway over the Bordeaux wine trade was a once-in-a-lifetime phenomenon. But even if another wine critic were to emerge with Parkeresque clout, I’m afraid he or she wouldn’t be able to save Bordeaux from itself.
The world’s most expensive wine is closing fast on its day of reckoning: when demand weakens and prices inevitably must fall. I believe Rolland knows this and senses that the forces of economic reality are closing in. For example, strong demand in the Asian market has previously propped up the insane prices of Bordeaux wines from the top chateaux, which often exceed $1,000 per bottle. The momentum from these price spikes had the effect of pushing up the prices of less attractive wines across the Bordeaux region. But now, the Asian market seems to have lost its appetite for expensive Bordeaux.
In my humble opinion, Rolland’s outburst prior to the En Primeurs was a cry of anguish over a changing price dynamic. The customers just aren’t there, at least not enough of them, for over-priced Bordeaux. Rolland is the canary in the coal mine. Bordeaux’s date with reality has arrived.
8