Our friend and WRO colleague, Patrick Comiskey, wrote an interesting piece in this week’s Los Angeles Times Food section on the troubling emergence of overblown, gutless Cabernet Sauvignon thoughout California, particularly in the Napa Valley.
The column, headlined “Where Have All the Honest Cabs Gone?” is available online here (registration is required). Patrick does a nice job of framing the issue, but takes it one step beyond by suggesting several good old-fashioned Cabernets that have what he calls classic Cabernet “grip” and enough balance and bright acidity to make them appealing with food, which I believe was the point of making good wine to begin with — to wash down good grub!
Some of Patrick’s favorites include Karl Lawrence, Ladera, Long Meadow Ranch and Neal Family Vineyards from the Napa Valley, and the iconic Ridge Vineyards “Monte Bello” Cabernet from the Santa Cruz Mountains.
To Patrick’s list I would add the Corison, Spottswoode, Duckhorn and Smith-Madrone Cabs. And there are many other very fine Cabernets out there, especially from the Napa Valley, where Cabernet is king.
But there is little doubt the “gutless” trend is growing and that the wines after this fashion are not cheap. I also worry that this style is creeping into the Pinot Noir arena, which is even more irksome for those who are drawn to Pinot because of its finesse and elegance.
Patrick’s piece is a good read. Don’t miss it, and don’t forget to write down his recommendations and show your support for good old-fashioned Cabernet by going out and buying some!
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