Always on the lookout for exceptional places to dine when I visit wine country, I was very pleased to stumble across a terriffic new spot (for me) last week in the village of Sonoma.
The El Dorado Kitchen, on the square, replaced Piatti’s a couple of years ago in the refurbished El Dorado Hotel. It’s the creation of chef Ryan Fancher, formerly of the French Laundry and Auberge du Soleil of the Napa Valley, and it’s predictably chic, contemporary despite all the trappings of turn-of-the-century California gold-rush architecture and wine country casual elegance.
I dined at El Dorado Kitchen three times — twice for lunch and once for dinner — and was impressed on each visit by the freshness of the ingredients and brilliance of the flavors. Mussels buried under a pile of pomme frites was as good as any moules marinieres I’ve had in Paris, and a dish of seared diver scallops was divine.
The bistro steak, enjoyed with a couple of different glasses of red wine while seated at the bar, was simple but flavorful. The fact that I returned twice after my initial experience speaks volumes.
The wine list, particularly the selection of wines by the glass, was stellar, as was the helpful and informed service.
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