Upshot is an iconoclastic new brand that was recently introduced by Rodney Strong Vineyards. In creating both the red and white Upshot wines Justin Seidenfeld, the estate’s winemaker, followed his passion for blending different grape varieties. A native Californian, Seidenfeld has a long history of working with some of the state’s best grapes, first as an intern at Iron Horse followed by a stretch at the Robert Mondavi Winery in Napa Valley. Stints at Estancia, Clos du Bois and Simi further deepened his appreciation for California’s fruit as well as his curiosity about the true blending potential of different grapes.
Seidenfeld sources the fruit for his wines from some of his favorite California vineyards. The various grapes are fermented individually and then blended together. Summing up an overall description of both the red and white wine, Seidenfeld said, “They are succulent and wonderfully fruity. These are not overly subtle wines, they are just enjoyable.”
I wholeheartedly agree with Sidenfeld’s description. The blends will vary every year, but the current white and red vintages are both enticingly fragrant and quaffable. The White Blend, for example, is dominated by barrel fermented Grenache Blanc which contributes an overall creaminess to the wine. Generous amounts of Zinfandel and Merlot in the Red Blend add further zest to the wine’s rich berry flavors and enduring finish.
Both Upshot wines have uniquely attractive, interesting and award-winning labels that offer more than just a pretty picture. Siedenfeld, a self-described “science geek", played a role in their design. The labels are dominated by a graphical “calendar” in the form of a circular chart that offers details of the harvest and production of the wines including harvest dates and production details.
As I imagined the details of dozens of grape varieties swirling around in the winemaker’s head all day, I asked Seidenfeld if he sometimes dreams about grapes. Turns out he does: “Whenever my wife and I have a fight I find myself afterwards dreaming about grapes,” he said with a grin.
Upshot White (California) White Blend 2019 ($19): Upshot White blends together Grenache Blanc (53%), “white” Pinot Noir–i.e. no skin contact (18%), Gewurztraminer (16%), Viognier (8%), and a “splash” of Sauvignon Blanc (5%). This bright and lively white wine offers generous stone fruit aromas and flavors balanced by crisp acidity and a satisfying finish. Fruit sources: Paso Robles (53%), Mendocino County (16%), Lake County (14%), Monterey County (8%), Sonoma County (9%).
Upshot Red (Sonoma County, California) 2018 ($19): This wine blends together Zinfandel (37%), Merlot (34%), Malbec (20%), Petit Verdot (5%) and Riesling (4%). With ripe and juicy red fruits plus subtle hints of floral in the background, this generously textured and flavorful wine is well balanced and food friendly.
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