Each of our regular WRO contributors has selected a Wine of the Year and a Wine Producer of the Year for 2007. We will feature one of their write-ups each day in this space through the end of the year, and if you’d like to nominate a wine or winery , email your choices to [email protected] —Ed.
Producer of the Year: My pick is Giacomo Conterno Winery, Monforte, Piedmont, Italy. I can think of no other wine producer whose every wine produced is a rare gem. Roberto 
Conterno, winemaker and son of the late Giovanni Conterno, is carrying on nobly in his father’s footsteps. Roberto now makes only three wines by the traditional method (no barriques; extensive maceration and aging, etc.) just like his father: Barolo Cascina Francia from the same-named vineyard in the neighboring village of Serralunga; Barolo ‘Monfortino,’ also from Cascina Francia but given a warmer fermentation and aged longer; and an outstanding Barbera d’Alba, from the same vineyard.
The 2002 vintage in the Barolo zone was written off by almost all 
of the producers in the area because of poor weather; you will find practically no 2002 Barolos or Barbarescos. Roberto Conterno took on the vintage as a challenge and made a small quantity of 2002 Barolo Monfortino only; no Barolo Cascina Francia. I have tasted it, and I agree with Roberto that is one of the greatest Monfortinos ever, which means it’s one of the greatest Barolos ever produced. It’s so huge and awesome that Roberto chose to release his 2003 Barolo Cascina Francia–which is a teriffic Barolo for this challenging vintage–two years before the 2002 Monfortino, scheduled to be released in 2009. This Barolo will be a monument to the winery and the winemaker; in my book, they don’t come any better. (Importer: Polaner Selections; Rare Wine Company).
Wine of the Year: 1996 Krug Champagne. I am already on record re: the 1996 vintage in Champagne–for me, the greatest vintage since the 1964 and 1966. I have advised readers to buy any reputable 1996s that they can find. Unfortunately, many 
1996s have disappeared from the market. Word spread quickly among Champagne lovers, and ’96s have been scooped up. Try finding the amazing 1996 Roederer Cristal, for instance (Cristal is always released early, and always in short supply). Fortunately, Krug invariably releases its two rare beauties, Vintage Krug and Krug Clos des Mesnil, late, with lots of aging built-in. Both of these babies arrived in the U.S. this year for the first time. The only way you can get Krug’s single-vineyard Blanc de Blancs, Clos des Mesnil, is to shell out $1,000, in a few select stores. I’ve tried both wines, and frankly I prefer the stupendous ’96 Vintage Krug, a blockbuster of a Champagne that is still available in a few places, but not for long, for around $300 to $325 (Importer: Moët-Hennessy USA). That’s still a lot of money, I know, but I think it’s so good that I sprang for two bottles myself.
This is how I described it in Wine Review Online two months ago: “Combine one of the great Champagnes with one of 
Champagne’s all-time great vintages and you have perfection. The incredible ’96 Krug is already majestic, although it will evolve into another-worldly state in ten years. But who can wait when it’s this good? Powerful aromas of ripe pear and honey, with floral notes. Great acidity, exceptional fruit. It fills the mouth with all sorts of complex, winey flavors, even now. When I first tasted the ’96 Krug in May, 2007, I rated it ’99.’ now I’m rating it even with the 1928 Krug. 100″
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