One of the most enduring myths about California wine is its perceived lack of longevity, especially compared to its European rivals.
It’s certainly true that some California wines, particularly fat Chardonnays, are dead on arrival if you open them more than a few years after the vintage, but Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah — and in some rare cases Zinfandel — have a good record when properly aged.
This point was brought home to me when I raided the cellar and grabbed a 1992 Heitz Cellars ‘Trailside’ Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon over the weekend. I took the bottle to a local restaurant and feared for the worst after the server broke the cork in half while trying to extract it.
With several pieces of cork floating in the neck of the bottle, she decided decanting might be the way to go. But I wondered if the fruit would fade because of the extensive aeration as my party lingered over a lovely bottle of Domaine Weinbach Pinot Blanc with the first course.
Not a chance. The 15-year-old Napa Valley Cabernet was in pristine condition. The fruit was bright and intense, and this particular vintage’s ample tannins were still firm after all these years. The air softened the tannins and the fruit sweetened up nicely, delivering layers of delicious aroma and flavor.
If anything, I may have opened this wonderful Heitz Cab a bit too soon!
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