Grange: A Wine That Speaks (Oz) for an Entire Country

Sep 10, 2007 | Blog

I’ve just sampled the new vintage of Penfolds Grange and plan to review it later this week. As you might expect, I liked it very much. Grange is the world’s most famous Shiraz, and that’s because it perennially ranks among the best red wines ever made.

Not in any one particular year. Every year. This is truly rarefied air that is occupied by the likes of Grange. The new vintage is 2002, but it could be 1998. Or 1985. Or whenever. Pick a year, any year.

If you’ve ever tasted Grange, especially a properly cellared older Grange, I’m not telling you anything you don’t alreay know. Nor am I trying to convince anyone to rush out and purchase a case of this rather expensive ($245 per bottle) example of wine aristocracy. Not that you could even if you were so inclined.

I am merely sharing the awe I have for this wine that is an icon for an entire country. Think about that. Is there one wine that defines France? Depends on whether you are more fond of Bordeaux or Burgundy. Italy? Depends whether you favor the wines of the north or the south.

Ask an Aussie, or any reasonably informed wine enthusiast from any part of the world, what’s the best wine from Australia, and there is no debate. Grange.

Now I’m a person who happens to enjoy Australian wines and I’ve had the pleasure on many occasions to try some of the most renowned — Leeuwen Estate, Henschke, Grosset, et al. But there is only one Grange.

I am reminded of this every time I taste it.

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