Okay, it wasn’t exactly an odyssey since I didn’t travel more than a handful of miles from my own front door, but it certainly was an epic journey for my palate. The occasion was a Greek wine dinner at the Olive Room, a new boutique inn and restaurant recently opened by the Spiliadis family, who are well known to Baltimoreans for their Black Olive Restaurant located just around the corner from this new venture. Although the rooftop restaurant does not 
overlook the azure Mediterranean, the panoramic vista of Baltimore’s skyline and harbor is pretty nice too, especially on evening such as this when the setting sun streaks the sky with swirls of gold and pink.
The edible expedition began with oysters, half of the briny bivalves topped with cucumber mignonette, the others baked à la Rockefeller. The bivalves were followed by seared scallops on a delicious slick of puréed parsnip and lemon. Among other notable dishes were mushroom polenta and savory bread pudding. And since this was Greek cuisine no one was surprised by the appearance of a treasure-trove of lamb dishes, including lamb ragout, roasted lamb meatballs, and oregano scented lamb chops. But what really gave this meal its sense of gustatory poetics were the wines. Three different estates were represented.
Domaine Gerovassiliou is surrounded by sea on three sides, while its western side faces Mount Olympus. It is an extraordinarily inviting landscape, both for humans and vines. 
Indigenous Greek grapes as well as well as familiar foreign varieties thrive here. Gerovassiliou Malagousia is a beautiful white wine made from a rare Greek grape that was on the verge of extinction before Evangelos Gerovassiliou recognized its potential. With floral aromatic notes and hints of lemon, pear and citrus, plus refreshing acidity and a long finish, this Malagousia is uniquely endowed with both heft and grace. Gerovassiliou Avaton, a blend of three Greeek reds (Limnio, Mavrotragano and Mavroudi), is dry and balanced, with dark berry flavors, spice, and a hint of cedar. The estate’s top of the line Evangelo (Syrah, with 8% Viognier) exhibits a rich, mellow character spiked by hints of black pepper and dark chocolate.
Domaine Katsaros is a small, family run estate nestled on the slopes of Mount Olympus almost 2500 feet above sea level. The organically raised grapes produce wines of depth and complexity, including the mellifluous Katsaros Chardonnay that is fresh and silky, with a medium body tweaked by acidity. Katsaros Rouge, a blend of Cabernet and Merlot has seductive aromatics, spice and fruit all nicely integrated with oak. This wine’s pronounced tannins melt on the palate when they meet up with something rich and fatty such as lamb chops.
Biblia Chora is set high up on the slopes of Mount Pangeon, in Macedonia. The succulent Biblia Chora Areti White, made from indigenous Assyrtiko, is fresh and fruity, with lemon drop 
and delicate floral notes. Biblia Chora Ovilos White, a blend of Assyrtiko with 50% Semillon, is a richly textured, complex elixir that suggests apricots, preserved lemon, honey and nuts. Biblia Chora Areti Red, a full bodied wine made from 100% Agiorgitiko, offers aromas reminiscent of sherry and cocoa, with enticing cherry, spice and cedar flavors.
It took me ten minutes rather than Odysseus’ ten years, to get back home, and unlike that intrepid traveler I did not venture into the underworld. But I did feel that I’d encountered at least one Greek god that night: Dionysius, in my wine-filled glass….
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