CARCASSONNE, France — My guide and I were near the end of a long day when we rolled through the gates of the ancient Roman fortress here in the “old city,” which simply means the part of Carcassonne that is inside the walls.
We stopped for a beer (being somewhat wined out) at a local pub, where the proprietor waxed poetic when we mentioned the name Jean-Louis Poudou.
“He is the finest winemaker of the region,” said the pub owner. “The best of the best. You will see.”
I was on my way to Carcassonne’s famous wine bar, Comptoir des Vins & Terroirs, to meet Jean-Louis for a tasting of wines from his Minervois estate, Domaine La Tour Boisee (a word of caution, many of the labels will say Chateau Tour Boisee).
The domaine has approximately 200 acres under vine, most of it to the indigenous grapes of the region — Grenache, Carignan, Mourvedre and Syrah, as well as an eclectic array of white grapes such as Vermentino and Grenache blanc.
The first wine I tried was unusual, to say the least. It was a blend of 23 different grape varieties (sort of a mega-Chateauneuf-du-Pape) but with no Syrah. And the grapes were all grown in the same vineyard. This light, easy drinking red is called Plantation 1905.
I liked it, it was a good start — but no fireworks.
Next up was Tour Boisee’s Cuvee Murielle et Frederique, which retails in the U.S. for about $14. We had moved up a notch in intensity. Named after Jean-Louis’ two daughters, Cuvee Murielle et Frederique 2005 offered an intense nose of brambly red and black fruits, sleek tannins and a supple mouthfeel. Yummy stuff.
I was impressed until Jean-Louis poured a glass of his 2004 Cuvee Marie-Claude, a blend of equal parts Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre, with only the Syrah seeing time in new oak barrels. This one’s a bit more expensive at about $28, but you get what you pay for.
Cuvee Marie-Claude delivers deeper, richer, more layered fruit, with darker aromas, hints of dried herbs such as anise and thyme, and generous flesh in the mouth, with an incredibly long finish. Despite its ripeness, Cuvee Marie-Claude is a fresh, well-balanced red that has years of spectacular evolution ahead of it.
Anyone considering wines to cellar that won’t break the bank should give this one a long, hard look.
Last but not least was the 2001 Chateau Tour Boisee Cuvee Marie-Claude “Jardin secret.” The Jadin secret is the “secret garden.” It’s a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Mourvedre from very old vines, and is only made in the best years.
Jean-Louis ages “Jardin secret” one year in wood and another three years in bottle, releasing it only after 4-years-plus in age. It sells for 30 euro (about $45) at the wine shop in Carcassonne.
This is an impressive wine, and worthy enough to keep company with the finest French reds from other regions. Big, rich and powerful, it has a spectacular mouthfeel, with fine tannins, layers of dark fruit and spice, fresh acidity and a strong touch of minerality. Its length on the palate suggests this is a wine for drinking now, but it is so well balanced and beautifully structured that I wouldn’t hesitate to cellar it for another decade or more.
You might think from my reaction to this wine that I am speaking of a great Syrah from the northern Rhone. Yes and no. It has many of the same qualities, but with the warmth on the palate of the sunny Mediterranean. It’s pure magic. From the magician of Minervois.
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