Last-Minute Thanksgiving Picks from Michael Apstein

Nov 24, 2010 | Blog

 These recommendations, coming shortly before the big day, are aimed at you last minute shoppers.  My recommended wines are all widely available–no esoteric 300 cases a year producer–and, with more than a nod to these economic times, reasonably priced.

Bubbly to Start–and for Some–to Continue

Nothing enlivens a gathering like the pop of a Champagne cork, so I suggest starting your Thanksgiving meal with bubbly.  Crémant de Bourgogne, sparkling wine from Burgundy, is an excellent and inexpensive alternative to Champagne.  Look for Simonnet-Febrve’s non-vintage Brut or their non-vintage Rosé (each about $18).  Both are beautifully balanced with a delicate creaminess.  The Rosé delivers subtle strawberry notes in addition. 

Alsace also produces Crémant using their native grapes in place of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Lucien Albrecht makes an engaging Rosé (about $18). 

Prosecco is another crowd pleaser.  Lighter and more “informal” than Champagne, its roundness makes it a good choice at Thanksgiving.  One sip of Maschio dei Cavalieri’s will make you and your guests happy (about $19). 

For those who insist on American wines for this uniquely American holiday–and even if you don’t–try one from Schramsberg, whose on everyone’s short list as California’s best sparkling wine producer.  Their 2006 Brut Rose (about $32) is worth the extra cost.  All of these sparkling wines could serve double duty–they are equally at home on the dinner table as an aperitif. 

For the Table

I put bottles of both reds and whites on the table because it’s as hard to match the wine with the guests as it is to match it with the food.  For some, this is one of the few times of the year they’ll drink wine.  And if they prefer white–or red–with everything, a good host will provide it. 

The Whites

When in doubt, serve Riesling.  That’s especially appropriate advice at Thanksgiving.  Riesling’s inherent acidity acts as a foil for a wide variety of foods–from sweet to spicy.  Chateau Ste Michelle’s 2009 Dry Riesling from Washington State can’t be beat (about $9).  Not aggressively dry, you’ll be amazed at how well it goes with turkey–and everything else on the table.  

Alsace produces some of the world’s best Riesling.  And you need to remember only two names there–Trimbach and Hugel.  Both are fine producers.  Trimbach’s 2007 Riesling is bracingly dry and vibrant.  Hugel’s is a touch riper.  You won’t be disappointed with either (both are about $18).

Everyone likes Chardonnay–and some insist on it–so you need to put one on the table.  Not a big buttery one, but a citrus-tinged racy one.  Reach for Maison Joseph Drouhin’s 2008 Saint-Véran (about $15), which has lovely stoniness and a lemon cream-like finish.  All of Drouhin’s 2008 white Burgundies are stunning and this one, from an appellation that borders Pouilly-Fuissé, is a particularly good buy. 

The Reds

A no-brainer for this year’s meal is Beaujolais–not nouveau, which can be too grapey and sweet–but from the 2009 vintage, which is the best the region has seen in decades.  Louis Jadot has invested enormously in the region since they purchased Chateau des Jacques there in the mid-1990s.  The wines under the Chateau des Jacques label are outstanding.  But their basic wines have also benefited from their commitment and experience.  Jadot’s 2009 Beaujolais-Villages will bring a smile to your face (about $12). 

Torres is one of Spain’s leading wine families who entire line, from inexpensive to pricey, represents good value.  Their 2007 Sangre de Toro, a mid-weight blend of Garnacha and Cariñena, provides more complexity than the prices suggests (about $9).  And as I said in my review of this view earlier in the year, don’t be misled by the plastic bull adorning the neck of the bottle.  There’s serious wine inside.

Castello Banfi is Tuscany makes great Brunello that sell for $50 and above.  They also make a tasty “little” wine, Centine from a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which sells for about 10 bucks.  The 2007 Centine would be perfect on the table because of its bright fruit profile and zippy acidity.

After the Main Event

Port is a fine way to finish the celebration while sitting around and talking, perhaps munching on cheese or nuts while watching a football game.  The choices are overwhelming but a 10-year Tawny from Taylor Fladgate, one the great Port houses–will envelope you with soothing warmth (about $30).

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