VERONA, Italy — We’ve all had Pinot Grigio that looked more like water than wine. These nearly colorless Grigios are perfectly pleasant and immensely popular, largely because they are simple, crisp and refreshing.
Nothing wrong with that. I quaff my fair share of these wines — grill tongs in one hand, glass of vino in the other — while barbecuing in the summer months.
Pinot Grigio, however, has a more serious side if a person is willing to explore and shell out a few extra bucks. The best of these more exceptional Pinot Grigios come from two regions in northern Italy, Alto Adige (Alois Lageder comes to mind) and Friuli, and particularly the Friuli districts of the Collio and the Colli Orientali.
The star of this region is Livio Felluga. The aging Livio is no longer involved in the winemaking, but he was a pioneer in the region after World War II and began a remarkable run of exceptional vintages that continues to this day under the direction of his four children.
Livio Felluga is perhaps most well known for its outstanding Pinot Grigios and a proprietary white blend called Terre Alte, using Pinot Bianco, Tocai Friulano and Sauvignon blanc. Each of those wines in the blend is also distinctive on its own, giving Felluga one of the greatest stables of white wines in all of Italy.
There is also a Merlot, a Refosco and a red blend of Refosco and Merlot called “Sosso.” The 2003 Sosso is superb, by the way, and beautifully balanced despite the excessive heat of the vintage.
But Pinot Grigio is Livio Felluga’s calling card to the world.
“It can be a serious wine,” noted winemaker Abdrea Felluga, who assumed control of wine production 14 years ago. “Of course the location of the vineyards, the soil and climate, are very important, and we have very low yields, which allows us to get this kind of concentration.
“And we wait until the ideal moment before we harvest. In 2006 we got the concentration we need, but it is still very elegant.”
The expressive aromatics of the Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio are unusual for this grape variety, which often tends to be austere in the nose with only faint hints of lime. The Felluga Pinot Grigio wafts out of the glass with some intensity, which is typical of all of Felluga’s white wines.
Good aromatics, minerality and wonderful balance — an unbeatable combination and one you will find in all of the Felluga wines.
And the Grigio actually has a bright straw color. Seriously.
Photo: Livio Felluga Winemaker Andrea Felluga gets a kick out of opening wines at Vinitaly.
8