HEALDSBURG, Calif. — We’ve seen this act before: Richard Arrowood sells Arrowood. Gone. Gary Farrell sells Gary Farrell. Gone. Richard Sanford sells Sanford. Gone.
The latest disappearing act involves James MacPhail, the well-regarded pinot noir specialist who sold the MacPhail winery to Hess several years ago.
During a recent visit, as I tasted the latest MacPhail releases at the small winery behind his house in the Russian River Valley, James casually let drop that this month would be his last as the winemaker at MacPhail.
"The parting is amicable," he said, though he did intimate there was a disagreement over the direction of the boutique winery, which has earned a stellar reputation for often-brilliant small-lot vineyard-designate pinot noirs and chardonnays, primarily from the Russian River and Sonoma Coast appellations.
His life as a winemaking consultant begins almost immediately. MacPhail’s first gig is with a winery currently under construction in the Sonoma Valley.
"I can’t say the name at this point, but they’re bringing in (renowned Napa Valley winemaker) Philippe Melka to oversee their Bordeaux program, and I will be responsible for their Burgundy program," said MacPhail.
In the meantime, he and his wife Kerry are launching their own new label, Tongue Dancer. "We chose that name because the wines we enjoy most dance on your tongue," said MacPhail.
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