Let me cut right to the chase. Readers already know the difficulties selecting wine for Thanksgiving–the diversity of flavors on the table and the diversity of interest in, and appreciation of, wine of those seated around the table. So here are my recommendations, from start to finish.
To Start
Champagne or sparkling wine is always a good way to start. Hand the guests a flute of bubbly as they arrive. Depending on how the economy
has affected you, try the stunning 2002 Roederer Champagne ($66) or their excellent Non-Nintage Brut Premier offering ($42). For those of you (like Paul Lukacs, my friend and colleague here at WRO) insisting on American wines on this all-American holiday, go with Roederer Estate ($26) from California’s Anderson Valley. You’d be hard-pressed to find a better American sparkling wine.
For a lighter bubbly, select a Prosecco. One from Adami, Maschio dei Cavalieri, Mionetto or Zardetto (each between $10 and $20) would be fine. And for a Rosé sparkler, try the well-priced beautifully balanced Crémant de Bourgogne from Simmonet-Febrve ($18).
Red, White and Rosé
Since there is no single wine that could possibly go equally well with all the food on the table and please all those seated around the table, I suggest putting out a bottle–or two or three depending on the size of your crowd–of red, white and rosé and let the guests help themselves.
Reds
Despite the howls I know I will hear from Michael Franz, the editor of WRO, I still recommend Beaujolais for Thanksgiving. Good Beaujolais has the advantage of plenty of bright red fruit flavors balanced by mouth-cleansing acidity and importantly, no astringent tannins. I would grab a bottle of Jadot’s 2008 Beaujolais-Villages ($12) or their considerably 
more interesting and complex 2006 Château des Jacques Moulin-a-Vent ($25), from the region’s most renowned village, as opposed to the Beaujolais Nouveau–just released amid the usual circus of publicity–even though the 2009 vintage in Beaujolais is extraordinary.
The current economy has made all of us look for bargains. In that vein, try Castello Banfi’s 2007 Centine ($12), a delightful blend Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with uplifting acidity that will complement, not overpower, the bird. Similarly, Citra’s 2007 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo ($6), another lively mid-weight Italian red, would be a good choice.
Pinot Noir is a personal favorite for pairing with all kinds of roasted birds, turkey included. Two from Burgundy I’d love to see on the table are the 2007 Château de Chamirey "Les Ruelles" ($45), a premier cru from the town of Mercurey and Louis Latour’s 2006 Marsannay ($23). Both allow you to savor the quintessential savory/fruity character of Pinot Noir from Burgundy. Although my heart and palate love Burgundy, California and Oregon also turn out satisfying Pinot Noirs that tend to be more robust and fruitier than Burgundy. From the successful 2006 vintage enjoy these for their harmony and balance: Byron’s Sierra Madre Vineyard ($40), Erath’s “Estate Selection” ($36), and either Saintsbury’s single-vineyard Brown Ranch ($60), or their blend from a variety of vineyards and labeled simply Carneros ($35). Merry Edwards made an astounding array of Pinot Noirs in 2006 ($40-$90). You could almost close your eyes, pick blindly, and come up with a superb wine.
Whites
For a white, choose one with zippy acidity, such as a dry Riesling that will refresh the palate after sweet potatoes or cranberry sauce. Two Rieslings that pop to mind immediately are Craggy Range’s 2008 Te Muna Road Vineyard (New Zealand) ($20) and Dr. Konstantin Frank’s 2007 (New York’s Finger Lakes region) ($18). Alsace in eastern France is home to gorgeous dry Riesling with enough stuffing to hold up to the . . .well, stuffing. Try ones from Beyer, Boxler, Mann or Trimbach and you will not be disappointed (each from $15-$20).
For those who always insist on Chardonnay, find one with good supporting acid–save the buttery ones for another meal. Drouhin’s 2007 Laforet Bourgogne Chardonnay ($13), from Burgundy, fits the bill perfectly and is an extraordinary value. Two other fine choices–both from Burgundy–are Alex Gambel’s 2006 Bourgogne Chardonnay ($22) and Louis Latour’s 2006 Montagny Premier Cru “La Grande Roche” ($17).
Rosé
The 2008 Prieuré de Montezargues ($19) and the 2008 Château D’Aqueria ($19), both from Tavel, a village in the south of France that makes only rosé, are two beautifully dry versions that have sufficient body and flavor to hold up to the Thanksgiving repast..
To Finish
And after the meal, sitting around talking or watching football, I suggest Port, such as Taylor Fladgate’s 2000 Late-Bottled Vintage Port ($22) or a lighter, but more layered, well-aged tawny, such as Graham’s 20 Year-Old ($50).
And a final word of advice–not wine related–let’s toast for what we have rather than what we might have lost this past year.
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