ST. HELENA, CA. — 
Ordinarily a stop at Spottswoode would be all about the Cabernet Sauvignon. Cab is the money grape of the Napa Valley and Spottswoode’s is as good as it gets. But Spottswoode is hardly a one-trick pony. The winery’s Sauvignon Blanc is probably the valley’s benchmark wine in that category.
It has all of the earmarks of a classy white Bordeaux, which is what it was meant to be when the winemaker Tony Soter bottled the first one back in the early 1980s. A Sauvignon that behaves and tastes like a white Bordeaux would neither be confused with a trendy New World Sauvignon — such as a pungent, grapefruit-driven example from New Zealand — nor one of those orange/nectarine citrus-dominated versions from France’s Loire Valley
The Napa Valley produces good Sauvignons that fit those profiles, such as Miner Family and Sterling, but for my money the finest Napa Valley Sauvignons are based on the Bordeaux model, delivering floral and stone fruit scents on the nose and fuller, mouth-watering layers of fruit on the palate, with a touch of vanilla spice.
Spottswoode achieves this by sourcing grapes from around the valley — obtaining tropical fruit aromas and oily textures from vineyards further north, tart citrus aromas and crisp acidity from cooler vineyards in the south, and those alluring stone-fruit aromas and softness on the palate from the Sauvignon Musque clone, which make up a significant portion of the blend — to complement grapes harvested from the estate vineyard.
The exceptional texture and mouthfeel of this wine is crafted in part by the use of stainless steel barrels — rather than large stainless steel vats — for a greater ratio of lees to wine. The lees contact is enhanced by stirring. Spottswoode has been using this technique for about 15 years. And some of the wine goes into traditional wooden barrels as well.
This style of Sauvignon is an excellent match with sweeter shellfish, such as scallops and lobster, and seafood served with creamy sauces. It also holds its own with chicken, pork and cream-based soups. Spottswoode’s current release is the 2005 vintage ($30).
Top photo: Winemaker Jennifer Williams showing off Spottswoode’s steel Sauvignon Blanc barrels.
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