I guess I remain the patriot in the WRO-writer group, as I only 
open American wines on Thanksgiving. It just seems to me that the last Thursday in November is the one day in the year in which most everyone in this traditionally non-gastronomic country actually pays attention to food. And since the United States today produces many truly excellent wines (something that was not true even a generation ago), it only makes sense to give thanks with native bounty on what after all is our national feast.
If you’re lucky enough to live in a part of the country producing fine wines these days, I’d urge you to think (and drink) locally this Thanksgiving. All fifty American states now have commercial wineries in operation. Obviously not all the wines are good, but many are. Even some wines made with non-European vinifera grape varieties have taken a significant leap forward in quality recently, the result I suspect of vintners employing the same sort of modern technologies in their wineries as do vinifera producers. To my taste, wines made from native grapes like Catawba, Delaware, and Niagara probably always will seem too sweet. But I’ve certainly enjoyed wines made from Chambourcin, Norton, Traminette and others recently. So my first recommendation is to at least consider gracing your Thanksgiving table with a local wine or wines. The rise of quality American wine throughout the country is something for which we all should give thanks.
Given the state of the economy, my second recommendation is not to spend a great deal of money on wines for Thanksgiving. You know your own budget, but this isn’t an occasion in which it makes sense to break the proverbial bank. Moreover, odds are that you’ll be pouring for a crowd that may include wine novices as well as aficionados. The challenge is to find affordable wines that can please everyone.
Finally, looking to the country as a whole and wines that are available nationwide, I have some more specific recommendations. Like my colleague, Ed McCarthy, I like to start a family feast with sparkling wine. But on Thanksgiving, I’ll pass on the Champagne and open an American bubbly. There are a number of fine choices out there, but I remain especially partial to Roederer Estate Brut NV ($22) from California’s Anderson Valley.
On the dinner table, I’ll definitely have both red and white, as the 
meal certainly can accommodate both. For the white, I want something full-bodied yet not too heavy (so not too oaky). A well-balanced Chardonnay can do the trick, but this year I think I’ll opt for a Pinot Gris from Oregon. A wine like Ponzi Willamette Valley Pinot Gris 2007 ($17) tastes of apples and pears, with nary a whiff of wood, so seems just right for this autumnal celebration.
Finally for the red, I might go with a West Coast Pinot Noir–if I can find one that is both affordable and not sappy, as far too many examples are these days–or a Long Island Merlot–if I can find one at all, since few make it down as far as my home in Maryland. But I think that I instead will open a Rhône-style blend from California. I find that these are some of the best values in American wine these days, and because good examples are not too big and bold, they can complement Thanksgiving fare nicely. How about Zaca Mesa ‘Z Cuvée’ 2006 ($20) from the Santa Ynez Valley? A blend of Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Syrah, it is full of peppery fruit and fun. I’ll be sure to lift a glass in toast–and thanks.
4