Premium Prosecco: Cru Cartizze is Proving It’s a Thing

Oct 15, 2024 | Articles, Featured Articles

By Jessica Dupuy

Prosecco has long been known for its lively bubbles, easygoing nature, and accessible price point. But there is another side to this sparkling wine—one rooted in unique terroir and artisanal craftsmanship. At the pinnacle of Prosecco production lies Cartizze, a designated cru nestled in the heart of the Valdobbiadene DOCG region. Cartizze represents the highest level of quality and distinction in the Prosecco world. With only 107 hectares of vineyards, this micro-zone is renowned for superior grapes and exceptional growing conditions. Producers like Bisol, one of the most historic estates in Valdobbiadene, are at the forefront of elevating Prosecco’s image, ensuring that wines from Cartizze are recognized as premium, expressive, and worthy of attention among fine sparkling wines.

“Prosecco is the most popular sparkling wine in the world, especially in the DOC area, that is the basic area of the Veneto region. And here we are not in the basic area. We are in the Superiore area, the area of Conegliano – Valdobbiadene,” explains Gianluca Bisol. “But inside this big world of Prosecco, there is a niche—a niche of a wonderful kind of soil that, with the same kind of grape, becomes amazing. This is Cartizze.”

The Rise of Prosecco: From Local Sparkle to Global Sensation

Prosecco’s story began in Conegliano Valdobbiadene, a hilly area in north-east Italy, situated 50 km from Venice and around 100 km from the Dolomites. For over three centuries, this region has provided the ideal environment for growing the grapes that produce Prosecco Superiore. Italy’s first School of Winemaking was founded here in 1876, setting the stage for the region’s winemaking excellence. Today, the production area covers 15 communes, recognized as one of Italy’s historic wine denominations in 1969.

With the reorganization of Prosecco’s denominations in 2009, the Italian Ministry of Agriculture granted DOCG status—the highest level of quality in Italian wine—to the Valdobbiadene-Conegliano region. Alongside it are the Asolo DOCG and the broader Prosecco DOC, which spans nine provinces across Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia, safeguarding the wine’s heritage.

Prosecco’s global popularity surged in recent years, driven largely by its light and refreshing style, perfect for aperitivo hours, bridal showers, and celebrations. By 2023, over 600 million bottles were sold, cementing Prosecco’s status as the world’s most-sold sparkling wine. However, much of this volume is driven by large-scale production, offering a fresh but straightforward experience. Beneath this approachable exterior, though, lies a more complex, nuanced world of Prosecco—one exemplified by the steep hills and varied soils of Valdobbiadene DOCG.

The Terroir of Valdobbiadene and the Cartizze Cru

The Valdobbiadene DOCG region boasts dramatic, rolling hillsides, composed of a beautiful variety of soils, including sandy marine sediment, clay, morainic soils, marne, and calcareous rock. “It is a beautiful panorama of soils,” says Gianluca Bisol. “On these soils, you get beautiful fruit expression—like apple and peach—but also exotic fruit, like lychee.” This diversity, combined with the elevation and cool breezes, creates an environment that allows the Glera grape to reach new levels of quality.

“But Glera can only arrive at this level of quality on this hill,” Bisol explains, referring to Cartizze. “You can leave the grape longer on the vine for maturation without losing acidity, and the concentration of the juice is higher.” However, Cartizze remains exclusive—”a small place, where there is only 1 bottle of Cartizze wine for every 800 bottles of Prosecco.”

The steepness of Cartizze’s vineyards further sets it apart. “It is heroic viticulture for sure,” says Bisol. “The hill is so steep it’s almost like a wall, and vines are planted in every square meter.” This labor-intensive viticulture ensures that every bottle captures the unique terroir and character of this prestigious cru.

Bisol’s Legacy and the Future of Premium Prosecco

As one of the oldest family estates in the region, with roots dating back to the 16th century, Bisol has been instrumental in the success and recognition of Cartizze as the pinnacle of Prosecco. Their wines reflect not only the terroir of the region but also a dedication to craftsmanship that has been passed down through generations. Known for their attention to detail, from grape selection to bottle aging, Bisol has shown the world that Prosecco can be much more than just a casual sparkler.

“Inside this big world of Prosecco, there is a niche,” Gianluca Bisol says. “A niche where Prosecco becomes something amazing.” With wines that express the depth and beauty of Cartizze, Bisol is leading the charge to elevate Prosecco to the ranks of premium sparkling wines.

As more consumers and wine professionals discover the unique character of Cartizze, the perception of Prosecco is beginning to shift. This small cru, with its diverse soils, steep hillsides, and historic producers, represents the future of premium Prosecco. Bisol, with its pioneering spirit and commitment to quality, is at the forefront of this transformation. Cartizze is no longer just a hidden gem—it’s proving to the world that there is, indeed, premium Prosecco.