Over on the reviews page I’m very upbeat on the Dutton Goldfield 2011 Freestone Hill Pinot Noir, from what was a disaster of a vintage for most Pinot producers in the region. This vineyard is planted in the Salmon Creek sub-region of the Russian River Valley and it’s a tremendous example of the strides California — particularly the Russian River Valley — has made with Pinot Noir.
It is accepted wisdom that the finest Pinots in America come from Oregon, and for most of the past three decades that was true. I no longer believe that to be the case, although I confess a fondness for Drouhin Oregon, Archery Summit and The Four Graces.
But no one in America is doing better work with Pinot than winemakers Gary Farrell at Alysian and Dan Goldfield at Dutton Goldfield. These two denizens of the Russian River Valley have consistently earned my highest marks for domestic Pinot Noir over the past couple of vintages. Throw Merry Edwards into the mix and you have a veritable Murderers’ Row of Pinot Noir prowess.
I still have great respect for Oregon Pinot, although a recent sampling of a dozen different Oregon producers was hugely disappointing, and recognize that other zones in California — Santa Barbara County, Carneros and Monterey’s Santa Lucia Highlands — are producing commendable Pinots, but my sense is the Russian River Valley has gained the upper hand in this all-important wine category.
Photo: Steve Dutton and winemaker Dan Goldfield of Dutton Goldfield.
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