There’s something about the final days of December that compels us to pause, look back, and take stock. It’s a time of reflection and anticipation, when memories of the past year crystallize into stories we carry forward. While some measure their year in milestones or photographs, for me, wine has always been the truest marker of time passed.
Each bottle opened tells a story—not just of what’s in the glass, but of where we were, who we shared it with, and the moments we celebrated (or even commiserated). In this spirit, I have selected twelve wines that shaped my 2024, each one a liquid postcard from a different month.
From the volcanic soils of Pantelleria to the windswept vineyards of the Texas High Plains—where my heart always finds its way home—these wines reflect a year of discovery, connection, and inspiration. Consider this a toast to a year defined by the places I’ve been, the people I’ve met, and the wines that brought it all together:
January: Clau de Nell Chenin Blanc 2020, Anjou
January always feels like a clean slate – a month of fresh starts and whispered promises to ourselves. While others might begin their year with green smoothies and gym memberships, I chose to inaugurate 2024 with a bottle that would become a harbinger of adventures to come.
The 2020 Chenin Blanc from Clau de Nell captured my imagination long before I would visit their biodynamic estate in Ambillou-Château six months later. This golden elixir, born from the silty-clay and tuffeau limestone soils of Anjou, spoke of its terroir with remarkable clarity. Each sip revealed layers of candied apple and baked pear, draped in hints of honey and orange marmalade, while its creamy, full-bodied palate carried the distinctive minerality that makes Loire Valley Chenin Blanc so compelling.
The estate, lovingly tended by Christian Jacques following the passing of his wife, the legendary Anne-Claude Leflaive, stands as a testament to their shared vision of biodynamic excellence. That January evening, as I savored this wine, I couldn’t have known how much more meaningful it would become after walking those very vineyards in June.
February: I Fabbri “Terra di Lamole” Chianti Classico 2020
February brought me to Tuscany for my first Chianti Classico AntePrime, guided by Canadian colleague Michael Godel. The journey began with a revelation: the distinctive character of Lamole’s high-altitude vineyards and the passionate stewardship of Susanna Grassi at I Fabbri.
Perched at 450 to 630 meters, I Fabbri’s vineyards are among Chianti Classico’s highest. Their 2020 “Terra di Lamole” captures the area’s essence with delicate rose aromatics, dark cherry notes, and the vibrant freshness born of sandstone-rich soils and cool mountain air.
The Grassi family has tended these slopes since the 17th century, but Susanna and her sister Maddalena’s organic practices have unlocked the terroir’s true voice. This wine embodies the unique harmony of Lamole’s history, passion, and breathtaking elevation.
March: Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Louis Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs 2009
March brings the first hint of spring, when the world sheds winter’s weight and leans into possibility—a perfect time for a wine of freshness and promise. The 2009 Cuvée Louis Salmon from Billecart-Salmon is just that, haunting my memory since my visit to Mareuil-sur-Aÿ the previous year.
This Blanc de Blancs, named for Elisabeth Salmon’s brother, draws exclusively from the Grand Cru terroirs of Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly, and Cramant. Under Mathieu Roland-Billecart’s thoughtful leadership, the house’s seventh generation continues to uphold its legacy of excellence.
In the glass, it unfolds like spring—marzipan and brioche yield to fresh mango, zesty lemon caviar, and whispers of cardamom and white pepper. Creamy and persistent, this wine is a timeless testament to Billecart-Salmon’s enduring magic.
April: Marrone Barolo DOCG Bussia 2019
Nothing quite prepares you for your first VinItaly. The scale of Verona’s annual wine spectacular could have been overwhelming without guidance from Craig Collins MS, Claire Hennessy, Andrea Lonardi MW, and Stevie Kim, Italy’s tireless wine evangelist. Kim’s invitation to judge at the 5StarWines & Wine Without Walls selection led to a serendipitous discovery: the Marrone 2019 Barolo Bussia.
This wine, which claimed the “Best Italian Wine” trophy with 97 points, piqued my interest. Days later, I walked the Bussia vineyard in the Barolo district’s UNESCO-recognized hills, understanding how this marvelous wine came to life.
The Marrone 2019 Barolo Bussia is layered with aromas of dark cherry, rose petals, and earthy spice. On the palate, it delivers structured tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, mineral-driven finish. It captures both the power and elegance of its historic terroir, standing as a testament to tradition and excellence.
May: Lost Draw Cellars Picpoul Blanc 2023, Texas High Plains
There’s something magical about returning home, especially when home keeps surprising you. My annual pilgrimage to Texas wine country with William Chris Vineyards never fails to reveal something unexpected. From the High Plains near Lubbock to the far-flung vineyards of Dell City, these journeys remind me that great wine often emerges from the most unexpected places.
This year, Lost Draw Cellars’ Picpoul Blanc captured the essence of Texas wine innovation. Known as the “lip stinger” when transliterated from its name in its native Languedoc, this French transplant has found an improbable second home in the sun-baked soils of the Texas High Plains. At the Timmons Estate Vineyard, the relentless Texas heat, rather than diminishing the grape’s natural acidity, seems to amplify its characteristic zesty brightness.
The 2023 vintage is a testament to possibility – proof that with the right combination of terroir, expertise, and audacity, Texas can not only grow great wine grapes but coax something entirely new from traditional varieties. Each glass offers that signature citrus snap and mineral backbone that makes Picpoul famous, now infused with a distinctly Texan accent that speaks of sun, soil, and a pioneering spirit.
June: G.D. Vajra Barolo Ravera 2018
Some wines are chosen for their pedigree, others for their story. The bottle we opened at Verona’s Alcove de Frate to celebrate my daughter’s birthday had both. After five weeks on Lake Garda, we had fully embraced the rhythms of Northern Italy – where meals stretch endlessly, conversations deepen over time, and every celebration calls for a wine that feels as significant as the moment itself.
The 2018 G.D. Vajra Ravera was an inspired choice. Having spent time with the Vajra family in their native Piedmont, I knew their wines carried the same warmth and authenticity as their hospitality. This Barolo, born from vineyards perched at 350-400 meters, speaks of the Ravera cru with layers of red fruit, iron-tinged minerality, and vibrant energy. Its structure and finesse showcase both the exceptional terroir and the family’s careful craftsmanship.
That evening, as the wine opened in our glasses, it became more than just a bottle – it told the story of place, tradition, and family. In a month of living like locals, this wine elevated the celebration of another year’s passing, capturing everything I love about Italian wine: its ability to transform a meal into a memory, grounded in tradition yet deeply personal.
July: Domaine Les Monts Fournois Coteaux Champenois Blanc 2021, Ludes Premier Cru
Sometimes the most exciting wine discoveries come from looking backward to move forward. In the northern Montagne de Reims, Juliette Alips of Domaine Les Monts Fournois bridges Champagne’s past and future. A member of the renowned Bérêche family, Juliette blends generations of expertise with a fresh vision, harkening back to a time before bubbles defined the region.
Her 2021 Coteaux Champenois Blanc from Ludes Premier Cru showcases the pure voice of Champagne’s terroir. This still wine, a rarity in a region famed for sparkling ones, shines with crystalline citrus and crackling minerality, undistracted by effervescence.
While her monopole Les Monts Fournois won’t debut until 2027, this wine offers a thrilling glimpse of her approach – one that honors tradition while carving out space for bold innovation in Champagne.
August: Donnafugata Ben Ryé 2017, Pantelleria
My first journey to Sicily felt like stepping into a different world – where African winds meet Mediterranean waters, ancient Greek temples rise from citrus groves, and every meal celebrates life. On the volcanic island of Pantelleria, I was truly spellbound, watching the Rallo family’s story unfold among terraced vineyards carved into impossible slopes.
Here, the Zibibbo grape (Muscat of Alexandria) transforms through heroic viticulture into something extraordinary. The 2017 Ben Ryé, meaning “Son of the Wind” in Arabic, embodies this windswept island. Made from sun-dried grapes, it captures the wild herbs, citrus, and volcanic essence of Pantelleria.
In the glass, this golden passito revealed layers of apricot, candied orange peel, and dried figs, balanced by brilliant acidity. Beyond its technical mastery, it represents the preservation of ancient traditions by a family deeply devoted to Sicilian wine culture.
September: Royal Tokaji Dry Furmint 2019
Sometimes the best wine discoveries come when you’re searching for something else. I arrived in Tokaj to explore its legendary sweet wines but found myself equally captivated by the crystalline beauty of dry Furmint.
Between wandering Budapest’s spice-scented streets and descending into Royal Tokaji’s historic caves with winemaker Zoltán Kovács, I discovered a new appreciation for Hungary’s wine heritage. While their 6 Puttonyos Aszú lived up to its noble reputation, it was the 2019 Dry Furmint that stole my attention.
Grown in the volcanic soils of the Mád commune, home to First Growth vineyards like Szt. Tamás and Nyulászó, this wine revealed another side of Tokaj. In the glass, grape flowers and crisp apple yielded to ripe stone fruits, carried by vibrant acidity and a mineral backbone. It reminded me that the most memorable wines aren’t always the ones we seek, but those that find us.
October: Villa Le Prata Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Le Prata 2018
Autumn in Montalcino has its own rhythm, and in 2024 it was marked by persistent rains that tested every winemaker’s patience. Amid these challenges, while attending the Brunello di Montalcino Academy, I was drawn to Villa Le Prata, a historic property perched over 500 meters near Montalcino’s summit. Once a bishop’s retreat, it has evolved into a beacon of Brunello’s heritage.
Here, I met Edoardo, a young winemaker confidently continuing his family’s legacy. The estate’s transformation from hunting lodge to renowned producer mirrors the evolution of Brunello itself – guided by passion and precision.
Their 2018 Vigna Le Prata Brunello exemplifies the vintage’s elegance and the family’s thoughtful craftsmanship. In a year that offered a refreshing contrast to recent warmer harvests, this high-altitude single-vineyard wine showed remarkable finesse. It speaks not only of place but of generational transition and the enduring magic of Montalcino.
November: A.A. Badenhorst Ramnasgras Cinsault 2022, Swartland
When Adi Badenhorst visited Austin in late October, he brought an infectious energy that made me rethink everything I knew about wine. Few winemakers can craft profoundly complex wines while remaining so refreshingly down-to-earth.
His 2022 Ramnasgras Cinsault felt perfect for our Thanksgiving table—a wine that balances serious appreciation with pure enjoyment. Sourced from old bush vines grown on Swartland’s Paardeberg mountain, granite soils lent the wine both tradition and innovation, with minimal intervention yielding maximum expression.
In the glass, it danced between delicacy and depth, with rose petals and pomegranate over a subtle mineral core. More than just a pairing, it brought something new to our holiday table, sparking conversations that ranged from South African terroir to the joy of discovering wines that don’t take themselves too seriously, even when they’re seriously good. A perfect blend of tradition, innovation, and effortless charm.
December: Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015
When James Suckling named Bertani’s 2015 Amarone as his Wine of the Year for 2024, it felt like a validation of what I’d experienced firsthand at Bertani’s Amarone Academy. These wines stood apart – refined, elegant, and rooted in their Valpolicella terroir – making this recognition deeply deserved.
Much of Bertani’s distinctiveness can be traced to Andrea Lonardi MW, their former director of winemaking. His profound connection to the region and forward-thinking vision shaped a new era for Bertani, especially evident in vintages after 2012. (Full disclosure: I’m collaborating with Lonardi on a book about Italian wine culture, and considering the prestige of this wine, it should come as no surprise as to why.)
At our family Christmas celebration, sharing the 2015 Amarone felt timely. In the glass, it revealed its greatness: dried cherries and blackberries layered with leather, tobacco, and balsamic notes, all carried by remarkable freshness and finely structured tannins. Its precision was almost architectural, balancing power and grace.
This wasn’t just Amarone; it was Amarone reimagined, honoring tradition while embracing change. As the year ended, this wine stood as a reminder of how the finest wines can transcend the expected, offering both innovation and respect for their roots. A perfect reflection of a specific legacy and vision.
Looking back on 2024, I’m struck by how much of my year was shaped by serendipity and adventure. From Pantelleria’s volcanic edges to Montalcino’s high-altitude vineyards, Valpolicella’s rolling hills to South Africa’s granite slopes, each wine marked a waypoint on a journey of discovery and connection.
These bottles weren’t just wines; they carried their terroir, their makers’ vision, and the magic of tradition meeting innovation. And they reminded me why I love wine: its ability to distill a world into a single glass. More than the wines themselves, it was the moments they created—the conversations, meals, and memories. From an Italian vineyard to a Texas Thanksgiving table, these wines brought adventure and a sense of place. Here’s to the next chapter. Cheers!