Creators Syndicate
When it comes to wine, nearly everyone loves a steal, including wine professionals. Thus it was no surprise that the fourth annual Sommelier Challenge in San Diego produced a number of impressive winners that sport a modest price tag.
Over the weekend of September 15-16, more than a dozen certified sommeliers evaluated 802 wines from 13 countries and found much to their liking in the under-$20 range.
The best example of this is the River Road Family Vineyards and Winery from Sonoma County in California. River Road did very well, winning gold medals with three different pinot noirs, all retailing for less than $20. You don’t even have to be an aficionado to realize that’s a very good price for pinot.
"We are very proud of (our) pricing," owner Ron Rubin told me last week.
Indeed, River Road Family found the sweet spot with its 2011 Russian River Valley Reserve Pinot Noir ($19.99), its 2011 Russian River Valley Boschetti Vineyard Pinot Noir ($19.99) and its basic 2011 Sonoma County Pinot Noir ($15.99). Those are stunning prices for good pinot.
River Road also won a silver medal for its 2011 Russian River Valley Pinot Meunier ($18.99). Pinot meunier is typically used in sparkling wine and Champagne blends, but there are a handful of producers who make a table wine from this fairly rare grape variety. And to the haul River Road added a silver for its 2011 Un-Oaked Sonoma County Chardonnay ($12.99).
A by Acacia didn’t win as many medals as River Road, but the winery (a second label for the iconic Carneros winery Acacia Vineyards) scored a platinum medal for its 2011 Pinot Noir, California ($14.99). At the Sommlier Challenge, wines are grouped and evaluated within a price range, so it’s all the more impressive that this one was awarded platinum and sent forward to the championship rounds to be tasted side-by-side with much more expensive wines in the effort to determine best of category and best of show.
A by Acacia also took a gold medal for its 2010 California Chardonnay ($14.99).
Another good example of exceptional wine at a modest price is the Beronia 2006 Rioja Reserva ($19.99). What makes this wine so special at the price is its ability to improve with age. By Rioja standards, the 2006 vintage is in its infancy.
Enjoyable now, the 2006 Beronia has the depth and structure to deliver on its potential over the next 15 years.
In general, Rioja represents good value because prices have been stuck at the same level for the past 15 years or so despite the fact there has been a renaissance in the region and the wines are better than ever. Beronia is one of the many quality producers, and its reserve wine is always top-notch.
Other top-notch value wines discovered at Sommelier Challenge IV:
Trapiche 2010 Malbec, Oak Cask, Mendoza, Argentina ($11.99) won a close vote for best malbec of the competition. That’s no surprise given Trapiche’s position as an industry leader in Argentina, but the real story here is that there’s still a $12 malbec being made with an eye toward quality. Much of the inexpensive malbec these days lacks character and is relatively boring. This vintage of Trapiche offers rich, supple fruit and a persistent finish. It clearly overdelivers on its price tag.
Bonterra Vineyards led the way among producers of organic wines, winning a platinum, a gold and two silvers with wines in the $13.99-$15.99 range. The platinum medal went to its 2010 Mendocino County Pinot Noir ($15.99). Again, this is a remarkable price for a pinot noir with enough character and structure to impress the professionals.
Bonterra has long been the leader in organic wine production in California, but seemed to fall off its game a few vintages back. Under new ownership now, the winery (based in Mendocino County) has had a string of successful wines from the 2010 and 2011 vintages.
It won a gold medal with its 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, Lake & Mendocino Counties ($13.99), and silvers for the 2011 Mendocino County Chardonnay ($13.99) and 2010 Mendocino County Merlot ($15.99).
Then there is the Clayhouse winery from Paso Robles with its entry-level wines all priced at $15. The 2010 Clayhouse Syrah not only won a gold medal, but it’s also one of my Wine Talk candidates for value wine of the year. The 2009 Clayhouse Cabernet Sauvignon and 2010 Clayhouse Malbec were awarded silver medals, and both of these $15 wines possess exceptional characteristics that you might expect in comparable wines at twice the price.
What I like about all three Clayhouse value winners is their impeccable balance. These are wines that have great flavors without high alcohol levels, and that makes them especially good food wines.
And, of course, the price is right.
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