“If it’s not sparkling what’s the pointe?” That’s the slogan at Sparkling Pointe Winery. When it comes to wine, I’m not one to argue with this philosophy, and having tasted Sparkling Pointe’s two award-winning wines at Critics’ Challenge International Wine Competition a couple of months ago, when I found myself briefly on Long Island’s North Fork a couple of days ago I made it a point (pointe?) to stop in at the winery.
The brand new tasting room facility (it opened in 2009) is a series of vast, light filled spaces whose elegant, pale color scheme is jazzed up with large, colorful canvases painted by Brazilian artist Claudio Paciullo, who has also designed the bottle labels.
Turns out that Sparkling Pointe owners Cynthia and Thomas Rosicki are enamored of all things Brazilian: the people, the culture, the food, and certainly the annual Carnival festivities. Are you concerned about a possible disconnect between the estate’s beautifully crafted, elegant sparkling wines and the riotous, bawdy behavior one generally associates with Rio’s mirth and merriment?
No worries. Sparkling Pointe is proof that beautiful, well-made bubbly is the most versatile wine on earth, adaptable to all cultures, suitable for all occasions, a fine companion to any mood and almost any food.
Sparkling Pointe makes only Méthode Champenoise wines. Tasting the superbly crafted sparklers you would think that a talented and experienced winemaker was behind them, and you would be right.
Sparkling Pointe’s winemaker is the much acclaimed Gilles Martin. Martin was born near France’s Champagne region, he has a degree in enology from the University of Montpellier, and he has worked at prestigious wineries, including Roederer Estate in California, and Delas Freres in the Rhone Valley.
Among Sparkling Pointe wines are the flagship 2007 Brut (60% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Meunier), which has tiny bubbles and crisp, lean citrus and apple notes. It was a Platinum Award winner at the 2011 Critic’s Challenge competition ($29).
The nonvintage Topaz Impérial, the other Sparkling Pointe Platinum winner, is a debonair pale pinkish-apricot colored rosé, soft and fruity, with persistence and balance on the finish; it is made from the same grapes as the Brut ($37). 2005 Blanc de Blancs (100 percent Chardonnay), has spent four years on the lees, and is floral, fruity and charmingly yeasty ($42). 2001 Brut Séduction, 42% Pinot Noir, 58% Chardonnay, is an altogether fleshier, creamier and toasty sparkler, with a beguiling hint of raspberry flavor on the finish ($50). Non-vintage Cuvée Carnaval, a festive, extra-dry fizz with an edge of sweetness, has good fruit character and an elusive, exotic buzz on the finish thanks to a dash of Gewurztraminer added to the dosage ($27).
I was surprised and delighted to discover another fine sparkling wine just a couple of miles down the road from Sparkling Pointe, at Shinn Estate Vineyards. David Page and his wife Barbara Shinn produce a host of exceedingly impressive wines (including a sterling Sauvignon Blanc and a couple of notable Bordeaux style red blends), but since I’m on a bubbles binge right now it’s the 2007 Brut Sparkling I want to single out in this instance. Made from 100% Chardonnay grapes, it is classy, clean, compelling and complex, with fine bubbles, and refreshing acidity well balanced by bright fruit.
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