The request came via email: Would I suggest a few gift wines for Christmas in the $10 to $20 range? Despite the degree of difficulty, I have accepted the challenge. Not that there aren’t any number of swell wines in this price range, but it was only a month ago that I offered up my 20-20 Thanksgiving (20 wines for $20 or less) column, which included many, if not most, of the top wines in this category from my 2011 tasting sessions.
After glancing at my tasting notes, I was very happy to discover I could cover this same ground again without repeating any of the recommendations from the Thanksgiving piece. Voila, what follows is a full case of other top-notch wines that are sure to please without straining the budget. Please note that all but one of the recommended wines is white. For additional red wines in this price range, please visit creators.com and revisit My 20-20 Thanksgiving!
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer’s enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Angel’s Secret 2010 Petite Sirah, High Valley ($17) — The grapes for this superb petite are sourced from the Shannon Ridge Vineyard in the rugged High Valley region northeast of the Napa Valley. It is said to be California’s highest vineyard, at an elevation of more than 2,000 feet. This vintage expresses the intensity of fruit for which the vineyard is renowned, with impressive layers of blackberry, black plum and blueberry. There is an inviting floral note of violets, with hints of black pepper and a savory note of smoked game. All in all quite remarkable for a red wine in this price range. Rating: 92.
Colome 2010 Torrontes, Valle Calchaqui, Argentina ($15) — There is no longer any doubt the influence of European and American viticulture and technology has elevated the wine game in Argentina. This push by outsiders is manifest in the wave of classy Argentine Malbecs on the market. The improvements extend to other grape varieties as well, most notably the lowly Torrontes. This is an aromatic white given little import by aficionados, though recent vintages have turned a few heads. Once thought to be nothing more than a simple but pleasant diversion from the region’s noteworthy red wines, torrontes more and more is growing up into a serious wine that offers a bit of complexity and finesse, and at a reasonable price. Colome’s 2010 is a lovely, elegant torrontes that delivers aromas of lime, grapefruit, tropical fruits and a tantalizing floral note that doesn’t overwhelm the senses or the taste buds. Torrontes, in the right hands, is now a wine that can stand up to grilled fish, shellfish and other savory morsels. This is something that could not have been said of torrontes just a few years ago. Rating: 91.
Villa Maria 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($15) — Dollar for dollar, Villa Maria’s "basic" sauvignon is probably the best bang for the buck in its genre. You could pay more — even Villa Maria has more expensive versions of the same wine — but if you’re simply looking for a sauvignon with classic Marlborough personality, structure and flavor, the Villa Maria Private Bin is hard to beat at the price. This vintage shows juicy, lip-smacking flavors of gooseberry, passion fruit and grapefruit, scintillating minerality and a crisp, bracing finish. Rating: 91.
Alois Lageder 2009 Pinot Bianco, Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Italy ($14) — Lageder is probably best known for his white wines, and this lovely pinot bianco might be clue as to why that is. It shows a floral, honeyed nose of baked apples and pears, juicy and refreshing acidity on the palate, and a clean, fresh finish — a perfect quaffer, but serious enough to tackle steamed shellfish, grilled fish and savory tapas. Rating: 91.
Martin Codax 2010 Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain ($15) — This well run cooperative provides a good home for the grapes of hundreds of growers in the fractured Rias Baixas, where small vineyard plots are the norm rather than the exception. The 2010 albarino exhibits notes of pear and lime, with excellent acidity and a rich, textured mouthfeel that is the result of what the winemaker calls "light" sur lie aging. The alcohol comes in at a refreshing 12.8 percent. Rating: 91.
Veramonte 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley, Chile ($12) — Sauvignon blanc has been Veramonte’s most consistent winner since the winery opened with great fanfare in 1990. The 2010 Reserva delivers a burst of juicy grapefruit, with hints of green citrus and lemongrass. It’s a first-class sauvignon at the remarkably low price of less than $12, and sure to please whether you’re merely quaffing it on a warm summer day or getting down with steamed shellfish or light appetizers. Rating: 90.
J Vineyards & Winery 2010 Pinot Gris, California ($16) — Love the sweet red citrus fruits and floral element I find in this deliciously quaffable pinot gris from J, the Russian River Valley winery best known for its stylish sparkling wines. The perfect dry, refreshing party white. Rating: 88.
Castello Banfi 2010 San Agelo Pinot Grigio, Montalcino, Italy ($17) — Crisp and refreshing, this Banfi pinot grigio is made in the lighter style that is particularly popular worldwide. It offers notes of citrus and peach, with a hint of fennel in the bouquet. This is either the perfect summer quaffer,or a wonderful foil for tapas, mild cheeses and shellfish. Rating: 88.
Kenwood Vineyards 2010 Pinot Gris, Russian River Valley ($16) — Not being of the "anything but chardonnay" crowd, I am loathe to promote this Pinot Gris as an alternative to Chardonnay, though that’s precisely what it is, a very good alternative selection for delicately flavored fish and spicy appetizers that might be overwhelmed by Chardonnay, a heavier wine. It shows vibrant notes of tropical fruit and is well balanced, fresh and clean. Rating: 88.
Simi 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County ($14) — Simi winemaker Steve Reeder made his first big wave in the wine business when he elevated the Kendall-Jackson Sauvignon Blanc program with impressive showings at a number of major wine competitions. He later moved on to Chateau St. Jean, where he also delivered top-notch sauvignon, and he’s doing the same for Simi. The common thread among all of these sauvignons is balance and complexity. The 2010 Simi is a perfect example, for it’s many different things without being too much of any one thing. It exhibits subtle herbal notes, hints of yellow citrus such as grapefruit and lime, red citrus such as tangerine, and a thread of minerality with juicy acidity. This is a refreshing sauvignon that is pleasant to sip on its own, but a wonderful accompaniment to savory appetizers and soft, ripe cheeses. Rating: 88.
Sella & Mosca 2009 Vermentino, Sardinia, Italy ($12) — Of all the delicious crisp white wines from the Mediterranean, vermentino is perhaps the least well known. For such a lovely wine, that’s a pity. The ’09 La Cala is a good example of the grape and the Mediterranean style. This wine is light and refreshing, low alcohol at 12.5 percent ABV (alcohol by volume), offers slightly tart aromas of lime citrus, with a distinctly floral note that is exotic and inviting. It’s the perfect wine for tapas or steamed shellfish, though not as bracingly acidic as the popular wines made from the albarino grape. Rating: 87.
Liberty School 2008 Chardonnay, Central Coast ($12) — I’m often asked for suggestions for wedding wines. The problem everyone has is they want to treat their guests, especially those who appreciate the difference between good wine and swill, to something nice, but the size of the wedding party makes the per-bottle price a daunting issue. No problem. Liberty School has been delivering big flavor for small change for as long as I can remember, and its ’08 Central Coast Chardonnay will be a crowd-pleaser. It offers ripe pear, apple and tropical fruit aromas, a luxurious, oily texture on the palate, and enough firm acidity to keep the flavors fresh. Party on! Rating: 87.
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