In my Creators Syndicate column this week I offer up Ten Chardonnays Anyone Could Love. Read the entire column here.
The Ten Chardonnays are wines I tasted at either the Critics Challenge International Wine Competition or the San Diego International. They are medal-winners all. And they are:
Cakebread 2008 Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($37) — As consistently outstanding as any Chardonnay to be found in the Napa Valley, Cakebread is often overlooked in this category only because its Cabernet Sauvignon is so good.
Flora Springs 2008 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($30) — This winery gets my vote as the Napa Valley’s most underrated, and that includes its Barrel Fermented Chard, which has been a star in the Flora Springs lineup for more than 20 years. Even when other California wineries were wandering in the Chardonnay wilderness, Flora Springs managed to get it right. They still do.
Franciscan 2007 Cuvee Sauvage Chardonnay, Carneros ($40) — It has been my experience that the Cuvee Sauvage from Franciscan ages as well or better than just about any other Napa Valley Chard. This one is fermented with wild rather than cultured yeasts, and it’s always among the most complex Chardonnays produced in the United States.
Grgich-Hills 2007 Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($42) — I have long considered Grgich among the most iconic of California Chardonnays. Winemaker and founder Mike Grgich is the genius who made the brilliant Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, which won the infamous Paris tasting in the 1970s. And his own wines under the Grgich-Hills banner have been no less good.
Frank Family Vineyards 2008 Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($32.50) — Judges at the San Diego International loved this Chardonnay, awarding it Platinum and nominating it for Best of Show white wine. It didn’t win, but make no mistake, this is a serious Chardonnay. It embodies the richness and heft of Chardonnay from the Napa Valley, yet maintains a measure of balance and elegance. Good stuff!
Jordan 2008 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley ($29) — The Jordan Chardonnay has long lived in the shadows of the Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon. That was due, at least to some extent, to vineyard sources that didn’t always measure up. Jordan is on a new track with its Chardonnay these days and the quality now rivals that of the Cabernet. In fact, the Jordan Chard was voted Best Chardonnay at this year’s Critics Challenge.
Laboure-Roi 2006 Chablis Premier Cru Reserve, France ($48) — If you’ve ever wondered what everyone’s talking about when they mention "minerality" in a wine, try a top-flight Chablis. The limestone soils and cool climate combine to produce Chardonnay that is flinty and mineral driven rather than ripe and fruity. The Laboure-Roi Premier Cru Reserve is an excellent example of a Chablis that hits it just right between the elements of fruit and minerals.
Ortman Family Vineyards 2007 Chardonnay, Edna Valley ($24) — Founding winemaker Chuck Ortman (his son, Matt, is now making the wines) was once known as Mr. Chardonnay because of his earliest Chardonnays at such wineries as Spring Mountain and Far Niente. He later founded Meridian and made the wines there for 20 years before leaving to do a small family winery. Chuck was always fond of Edna Valley Chardonnay, and this vintage of OFV reminds me of many of the Meridian Chardonnays he made from Edna Valley. It’s rich on the palate and full bodied, but it’s beautifully structured and well balanced.
Sonoma Cutrer 2008 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast ($24) — This Chardonnay is a step up from Sonoma Cutrer’s Russian River Ranches bottling that seems to be the ubiquitous restaurant Chardonnay. It has better structure and is slightly more complex, but not much more expensive. The Sonoma Cutrer Chardonnays are uniformly outstanding food wines, and this one is no exception. It displays an attractive lemon oil aroma and is supported with good acidity.
William Fevre 2008 Champs Royaux Chablis, France ($23) — If ever you feel the need for Chardonnay with freshly shucked oysters, Champs Royaux would be the one. It is fresh and crisp, with a flinty mineral character and aromas of tart lime, lemon and green apple, but it ultimately has a creamy texture despite the crispness and pungency. A very complex Chablis for this price point.
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