Thanksgiving Wine Picks from McCarthy and Apstein

Nov 20, 2007 | Blog

[WRO Readers:  We’ll be publishing Thanksgiving wine recommendations in this space each day until the holiday–sometimes posting several contributions during a single day–so stay tuned!  Ed.]

Ed McCarthy:

Traditionally, I’ve always chosen a red Burgundy for Thanksgiving dinner.  And I still would recommend Burgundy if my guests insisted on a red wine.  But frankly, I think that a substantial white wine really complements turkey and all the side dishes better.  If you drink only red wine, go ahead and select a Pinot Noir, red Burgundy, or Beaujolais from the recommendations of my colleagues.  But here are two of my favorite white wine choices for T-day:

Frankland Estate, Frankland River (Western Australia, Australia) Riesling Isolation Ridge 2005 ($20, Wildman): You can’t go wrong with a great, minerally dry Riesling and turkey.  Rich, dry, lean-style Riesling.  The Frankland Estate, from one of the best sub-regions of the Great Southern, has lots of slatey extract, balanced with firm acidity.  Outstanding wine, and a real value.  93

Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Pucelles 2001 ($157, Wilson Daniels): For me, a great white Burgundy with turkey is one of the all-time great food pairings.  The 2001 Les Pucelles has rich, concentrated, flavors of ripe apple and citrus.  It has lots of power and great depth, but with the delicacy that Les Pucelles, my favorite Leflaive Premier Cru, always shows.  It is drinking beautifully now, just beginning to reach its peak.  95

Michael Apstein:

For me, poultry demands Pinot Noir-based wines.  And the most captivating expression of that grape comes from Burgundy.  So despite the uniquely American nature of the holiday, my choices for wine come from Burgundy.

Maison Louis Latour, Volnay 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) En Chevret 2005 ($45, Louis Latour USA, Inc):  Latour has hit the jackpot with this Volnay in 2005.  They have been buying grapes from a grower who owns a piece of the En Chevret vineyard only since the late 1990s and have been making better and better wine every year.  As good as their 2002 was, their 2005 is even better.  Unusually intense for Volnay, it has a gorgeous silkiness.  Concentrated fruit flavors give way to alluring leafy earthiness as it sits in the glass.  Lovely to drink now for its accessible fruit quality, the evolution in the glass indicates this is also a wine to cellar.  93

Simonnet Febvre, Cremant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Rosé NV ($17, Louis Latour USA, Inc): This wine is a guaranteed crowd-pleaser.  There is no better way to infuse festivity into a gathering than with the ‘pop’ from opening a bottle of bubbly.  The pale pink color and soft strawberry flavors will bring a smile to every guest’s face.  Without a trace of sweetness, it’s the softer, less fizzy nature of Cremant compared to Champagne that makes it easy to drink.  Made entirely from Pinot Noir grown in Irancey (part of Burgundy near Chablis), it has enough stuffing to go from the aperitif mode to ‘I’ll have another glass–or two–with the turkey.’  88

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