Robert Whitley
Creators Syndicate
After more than 20 years of wine suggestions for Valentine’s Day, it occurs to me – finally, you might say – that this occasion requires an in-the-moment wine that delivers an immediate message. The notion that you would gift a wine that requires an additional ten years in the cellar might be romantic, but not very practical.
Valentine’s Day is all about the moment, and that requires a “now” wine. That means it must be delicious on this day of all days. So the question becomes, what wines qualify?
There are certainly plenty of wines made in a lighter, fruity style meant for immediate consumption. These are typically inexpensive wines produced in bulk and sold with clever labels that are pure fantasy, such as Little Black Dress, Yellowtail or, my favorite, Red Guitar, which is really quite good.
I suspect, however, that the average wine enthusiast also wants to give a wine gift that is special as well as immediately gratifying.
That brings me to wines that sparkle, wines that are made to pair with chocolate and other sweets, and wines that are substantial but impressive when young.
If you are inclined toward wines that sparkle, know that almost no one, let alone a potential valentine, is offended by a gift of Champagne. I typically cellar my vintage Champagnes, so for immediate consumption I look to my favorite non-vintage bruts, and for occasions such as Valentine’s Day I prefer rose Champagne.
My favorites are Laurent-Perrier Brut Rose ($65) and Billecart Salmon Brut Rose ($40). I’ve never been disappointed with either of these stellar Champagne houses, and it should be noted that both specialize in rose Champagne even though they produce the full range of Champagne styles.
California also has a handful of exceptional sparkling rose producers, including my favorite, Domaine Carneros by Taittinger. The Domaine Carneros Brut Rose Cuvee de la Pompadour ($36) is perhaps the finest of this genre. One of my favorites is J Vineyards Brut Rose ($30). Gloria Ferrer’s 2006 Brut Rose ($42) is another that is very nice for this occasion.
And if you like bubbly but want something a little quirky, the Rosa Regale Brachetto d’Acqui from Piedmont, Italy ($24) is a gem. This semi-dry bubbly exhibits bright aromas of raspberry and strawberry, with a remarkably clean finish. It is sweet enough to serve with chocolate and other desserts, but dry enough that it’s refreshing and delicious as an aperitif.
The sweet component should not be overlooked on an occasion that inspires gifts that are sweet, such as chocolate truffles. It is a common misconception that Champagne is outstanding with chocolate. Some Champagnes and sparkling wines are, but most aren’t. The drier the wine, the less likely it will complement a chocolate sweet.
That brings us to wines that are made to work with such things. Ruby and tawny Ports are the perfect foil for chocolate desserts and candies. There is no need to spend a fortune for this unique marriage, as inexpensive vintage character and young tawny Ports are more than adequate for the pairing.
Two vintage character Ports I strongly recommend are Graham’s Six Grapes ($22) and Smith Woodhouse Lodge Reserve ($15). Some bottlings of Six Grapes that I’ve enjoyed have been very close in structure and style to Late Bottled Vintage and Single Quinta Ports that I’ve tasted. These are very good Ports that seldom disappoint.
Both also make excellent 10-year-old tawnies. I’m also fond of the 10-year-old tawnies from Taylor-Fladgate, Warre’s and Sandeman. All of these 10-year-olds can be purchased for about $25. I prefer the younger tawnies with chocolates because they still have plenty of fruit. Older tawnies trend more toward the caramel aromas and are better served with aromatic, runny cheeses.
Should your taste, or your diet, steer you away from the sweeter side of Valentine’s Day, a solid California or Oregon Pinot Noir might be in your future. I suggest Pinots from California and Oregon because they are more likely to be approachable when young than red Burgundies, even those from a good vintage.
California’s Bouchaine Vineyards won a Platinum medal at the recent Winemaker Challenge with its 2007 Estate Carneros Pinot Noir ($30), a delicious Pinot that is drinkable now. And Oregon’s The Four Graces won a Gold award at the same competition with its 2008 Reserve Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($42). Both are stunning wines. Both are dry. But both are sure to hit a sweet note on this Valentine’s Day, or any other day for that matter.
To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.
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