FLORENCE, Italy — I’m stranded in Florence tonight because of a miscommunication about the pick-up time for a ride to Montalcino for a week of tasting Brunello.
It’s been one of those trips, starting Sunday night in Paris when I walked from my hotel to Willi’s Wine Bar (left), only to find it was closed. I had been savoring an evening at Willi’s since I began my journey, so I was a bit bummed. But not for long.
I walked around the corner to Le Grand Colbert (right) and managed to get in without a reservation, which can be difficult on Sunday nights in Paris because so many of the good restaurants are closed (i.e., Willi’s).
One of the finest roast chickens in Paris with a bottle of Frederic Magnien 2004 Gevrey-Chambertin saved the night. Le Grand Colbert is a favorite brasserie because it’s both cozy and elegant, yet unpretentious. And the prices are modest for Paris. It was an excellent recovery from my own poor planning.
I flew to Florence on Monday and had a mission to experience the best steak Florentine, or bistecca Fiorentina, in Florence. Several friends had suggested I would find it at Il Latini. I thought this was probably a very good call, for Il Latini is one of my regular stops in Florence and I always order the same thing — the world’s greatest veal chop!
It was not a great leap to imagine Latini might have the best steak Florentine as well. So I set out on the trek from my hotel along the Arno river to Il Latini, near the Ponte Vecchio.
Wouldn’t you know it, Latini is closed on Mondays. They don’t take reservations, so I never thought to call. Now I was really bummed. But once again, not for long. I went around the corner to a restaurant I know well, Buca Mario (below right).
Once again, without a reservation I lucked into a good table. Ordered a bottle of San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva and watched a couple of the most beautiful bistecca Fiorentinas I had ever seen pass me on their way from the kitchen to tables in the back.
Sold. Steak Florentine for one, a bottle of Chianti and I was good for the night. What awaits me this evening I have no idea, but I’m starting to think carefully laid plans might be overrated!
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