Wine Country Food for Thought

Sep 13, 2007 | Blog

Man does not live by wine alone. Not this man. Not when there are so many exceptional restaurants on the heavily traveled wine routes of the world.

I’ve just completed an excursion to Napa and Sonoma, through San Francisco, and came home with much food for thought. Too much food, some might say, but that’s why I’ve pedaled down to Fiesta Island on my 12-speed the past few days.

Anyway, I digress. Back to my wine travels. Besides the question of which wineries to visit, the most oft-asked question when our readers are planning a wine country visit is where to dine.

I had a number of terrific culinary experiences on my recent trip and thought I’d share.

Napa Valley

Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen in St. Helena is one of three superb dining spots owned by superstar chef Cincy Pawlcyn (Mustards Grill and Go Fish are the others, and I highly recommend both). I had a wonderful salad with grilled salmon, but was seated outside on one of the Napa Valley’s most scorching days of summer. My table was partially in the shade at the start of lunch, but before the main course arrived I was bathed in intense sunlight, reducing the butter in my butter dish to a pool of goo. All I needed was s grilled lobster tail! My server explained I had been seated at the “demon” table. Don’t know if she was offering a commentary on my appearance, or what.

Redd is the stylish establishment created by Richard Reddington, formerly the chef at Auberge du Soleil. Reddington’s resume is nothing short of stunning: Daniel in New York, Spago in Beverly Hills and Jardinere in San Francisco prior to the Auberge. Redd is one of about five spectacular dining spots in Yountville (the others are French Laundry, Bistro Jeanty, the restaurant at Domaine Chandon and Bouchon) and certainly one of the most elegant. My diver scallops would melt in your mouth! And the wines by the glass were not only exceptional, but not limited to the Napa Valley, either.

Sonoma County

Willi’s Seafood & Raw Bar is exactly what it sounds like. Just off the town square in Healdsburg, Willi’s is the place for freshly shucked oysters, sushi, diver scallops and the like. Wash it down with something crisp and refreshing from the impressive wine list, which includes numerous offerings by the glass.

El Dorado Kitchen is my new favorite hangout in the town of Sonoma. Couldn’t stay away from the place on my last visit. (Scroll down to my previous blog on the El Dorado Kitchen.) Great food, great wine list, and a convivial bar atmosphere for when you’re dining solo.

Photo: This alleyway leads to the entrance to Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen. If dining al fresco during the lunch hour, accept the “demon” table on the patio at your own peril.

8