“Sleep – the most beautiful experience in life – except drink.” This quote, from that old rascal WC Fields, came to mind last week during a visit to Portugal, which was hosted by the Esparão wine company. In the three different wine centers I visited (Alentejo, the Douro, and Villa Nova de Gaia/Porto) I lived Fields’ dream-come-true since I indulged in both sound sleep and excellent wines. Should you find yourself in Portugal’s wine country in the near future, let me briefly describe the noteworthy places whose peaceful atmosphere, exceptionally comfortable beds and unusually attractive décor were all conducive to catching plenty of zzz’s at the end of busy days on the wine trail. Each of these hotels offers the creature comforts one expects from a boutique hotel (wireless internet connection in all guest rooms, air conditioning, tennis court, fitness facility, swimming pool, full-service spa, friendly staff, fine dining, etc.)
Convento do Espinheiro: Located in the Alentejo wine region about 90 miles inland from the Lisbon airport, this beautifully restored 15th
century convent has a wealth of distinctive charms, such as a gorgeously restored chapel (where a string quartet performed the night I was there), and a large expanse of kitchen and flower gardens. The ancient whitewashed, red tiled buildings and tranquil rural setting all transmit an almost palpable sense of serenity. The hotel is about a mile from the lovely town of Evora, a UNESCO Heritage site.
Hotel Vintage House: The Douro is surely one of the world’s most scenic wine regions, with its broad, curvaceous river cutting through a 
landscape of terraced vineyards that inch their down steep slopes to the water’s edge. Nestled in this splendid scenery is the Hotel Vintage House, a 42 room inn carved out of a former 18th century wine estate. The overall décor reflects the mood of an English manor house, and the guest rooms, each with a glorious river view, are comfortable without being over-the-top luxurious. The nighttime silence is so profound that one might as well be slumbering on another planet (or in an earlier, quieter century). I didn’t dine at the hotel this time (I went to the much acclaimed Restaurant DOC a few miles downriver), but I’ve had excellent meals at Vintage House in the past. This is, of course, Porto wine country, and the hotel staff will help arrange wine tastings and/or wine related expeditions on the river.
The Yeatman: Each of the 82 guest rooms at this classy hotel has a private terrace with expansive views of the city of Porto stretching out seductively across the Douro River. From its commanding hillside
position on the south side of the river, the Yeatman seems to float above the red tiled roofs of Vila Nova de Gaia’s legendary “lodges” where Port wines are stored for aging. The hotel’s mood and décor reflects the dual sensibilities and traditions of the Portuguese and British cultures that established the country’s wine culture. At the Yeatman, which opened in August 2010 and was founded by the Fladgate Partnership (the owners of Taylor’s, Fonseca and Croft Port houses), wine is definitely the theme, from the Caudalie Vinotherapies Spa, to the decanter-shaped infinity pool. The hotel’s 25,000 bottle wine cellar stocks the world’s largest range of Portuguese wines, and each of the spacious, light, bright guest rooms is affiliated with a specific winery “partner” who has helped personalize the room. And did I mention that the Yeatman’s beds are incredibly comfortable?
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