ST. HELENA, CA. — 
I rolled into St. Helena sometime close to 9 p.m. Sunday night and knew finding a restaurant open at that hour would be touch and go. The Napa Valley rolls up the streets early on Sunday and Monday nights, so the culinary options in this land of plenty can be sorely limited without some inside knowledge.
I wondered if Cindy’s Back Street would still be open and my hotel was kind enough to call. Cindy’s, a popular locals spot (visitors are welcome, too!) operated by celebrated chef Cindy Pawlcyn (of Mustard’s Grill and Fog City Diner fame) is a favorite of mine, but it was about to close.
They suggested, however, that I try the new Pawlcyn restaurant, Go Fish, which had opened in September in the space formerly occupied by Pinot Blanc. It has slightly later hours than Cindy’s Back Street. You can definitely lead this hoss to water, and I may even take a sip while I’m there.
What a find! Go Fish is a stylish new entry on the Napa Valley culinary scene, offering fresh fish done three ways (poached, sauteed or wood grilled) and with a choice of sauces on the side (I had my wood grilled Rhode Island striped bass with a sauce of kalamata olives and spanish peppers).
There’s also an extensive sushi and raw seafood bar menu.
As impressed as I was by the cuisine (Prince Edward Island mussels in a coconut curry sauce got everything off on the right foot) I still found the selection of wines by the glass and half-bottle (so important when dining solo) a stunning complement to the look and feel of the restaurant.
The wine list is small but truly international in scope and spot on for the type of cuisine. And I got there under the deadline, albeit barely.
Follow-up:
Locals are generally enthusiastic about Go Fish, but there were complaints about service in the first couple of weeks after it opened, and it is said some of those glitches persist on a busy weekend night. I received outstanding service however, even as a walk-in just before closing.
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