Taut and linear, with echoes of slate and stone lurking beneath its crisp apple-scented fruit, this is a fine example of a relatively obscure grape variety from one of the finest wineries in Alto Adige, high in the Dolomites, just south of the Austrian border. It tastes above all else refreshing, and while a good partner for light fish or poultry dishes, works very well as an aperitif before dinner.
Abbazia di Novacella, Alto Adige (Italy) Kerner 2016
By Paul Lukacs