Abrigo Giovanni, Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba Superiore DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2017

 There’s Dolcetto and then there’s Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba, one of the few Dolcetto areas to be awarded DOCG status, Italy’s highest category of wine.  Dolcetto from around Alba, especially Diano d’Alba, typically have more elegance than run-of-the-mill Dolcetto.  Abrigo Giovanni’s is an excellent example of that elegance.  It has a bit of everything and not too much of anything.  Both mineral-y and marked by a black cherry-like fruitiness, this mid-weight wine has a lovely texture that makes it a delight to drink now.  An alluring hint of bitter cherry in the finish makes it a better choice for a hearty pasta dish than as a before dinner drink.  The price means you should buy it by the case!