Aldo Rainoldi, Valtellina Superiore (Lombardy, Italy) Nebbiolo 2019

 Fans of the great Lyle Lovett will recall a line from a song that goes, “I love everybody, especially you,” and my twist on that would be, “I love all wines, especially Nebbiolo.”  I’m far from alone in that latter sentiment, as the wines of Barolo and Barbaresco are really riding high at the moment, but all lovers of those wines should be experimenting with other Italian renditions of the variety.  Alto Piemonte renditions are gaining fame rapidly, but the Alpine region of Valtellina has been making wonderful Nebbiolos for many generations, and they absolutely deserve your attention. Being Alpine, they are grown in a cool climate that makes for lean, lithe, stylish renditions of Nebbiolo that feature intriguing aromas and nuanced flavor profiles.  This is a very fine example, with lightly floral topnotes, emerging scents of spices and church incense, fruit notes recalling pie cherries and cranberries, and abundant but fine-grained tannins that provide a well measured tug in the finish to firm up the flavors.  With a playfully simple label on a light but ecologically responsible bottle, this could be mistaken for a simple little wine, but don’t be fooled.  In boxing terms, this is a featherweight that has lots of coiled power to pair up now with poultry or light meats, or to unspool many additional complexities for at least a decade.  By which I mean, not just hang on, but improve markedly.  This is not mere speculation on my part, but a fact proved by the wine being even better when tasted 24 hours after being opened and left uncorked.